Parts for your 2004 Holden Commodore-Thrust bearing

2004 Holden Commodore thrust-bearing: what it is, and when to replace it

Referencing the Holden VY/VZ Service Manual (Clutch section), Exedy Australia’s application guide for Commodore VY–VZ, and service literature for Getrag/Tremec/Aisin gearboxes, the 2004 Holden Commodore runs a clutch thrust (release/throwout) bearing on all manual variants. Depending on transmission, it’s either a traditional fork-and-release bearing setup (e.g., Getrag 5‑speed) or a hydraulic concentric slave cylinder (CSC) with an integrated thrust bearing (common on Tremec T56 and later Aisin 6‑speed). Automatic Commodores don’t have a clutch thrust bearing, the engine’s crankshaft thrust washers exist but aren’t a routine service item.

On a manual 2004 Commodore, the thrust-bearing’s job is simple but critical: it lets the clutch pressure plate disengage smoothly when the driver presses the pedal, transferring that force with minimal friction to protect the clutch fingers. When healthy, gear changes feel clean and quiet. When it’s tired, owners typically notice a chirp, rumble or whirring that changes with pedal position, along with a notchy or reluctant shift—especially into first or reverse at a standstill.

Best practice during any clutch job on a 2004 Commodore is to replace the thrust-bearing as a matter of course. Most reputable clutch kits (as listed in Exedy and ClutchPro catalogues) include the release bearing or CSC, along with a pressure plate, friction disc and usually a spigot/pilot bearing. Replacing everything together saves a second gearbox removal and prevents mismatched wear.

• For external-release setups (fork and separate bearing): inspect the clutch fork, pivot ball and guide tube, replace anything scored or loose. Lightly lube the guide tube with the correct high-temp grease—no excess.
• For CSC-style units: always fit a new CSC, check the master cylinder and hose for leaks, and bleed with fresh DOT 3/4 fluid. Any seepage at the bellhousing or a soft pedal is a red flag.

Other sensible checks while the box is out include the flywheel face and runout, rear main seal condition, and gearbox input shaft play. If the bearing noise is present only with the pedal depressed, it points strongly to the thrust-bearing, pedal-up noises can suggest input shaft or gearbox bearings instead.

There’s no hard service interval—life depends on driving style and traffic. Many last well beyond 150,000 km, but heavy clutch work or resting a foot on the pedal shortens it. If it’s noisy, don’t leave it until it takes out the pressure plate fingers, plan the repair and get the clutch kit and bearing done together for a no‑dramas result.

• Which 2004 Commodore models actually have a thrust-bearing?
  Manual variants across VY Series II and early VZ (including V6 and V8 manuals) use a clutch thrust/release bearing—either a conventional unit or a CSC with an integrated bearing. Automatic models don’t use a clutch thrust-bearing.
• Can a noisy thrust-bearing damage other parts?
  Yes. If ignored, it can chew the pressure plate fingers, cause clutch drag, make shifts crunchy and potentially stress the slave or CSC. Replacing the bearing with the clutch kit avoids repeat labour and collateral wear.
• Can the thrust-bearing be replaced on its own?
  It’s physically possible, especially on external-release systems, but not recommended. The labour to remove the gearbox is the big cost, so most workshops fit a full clutch kit (including the bearing/CSC and pilot bearing) and inspect the flywheel at the same time.