Parts for your 2004 Daihatsu Yrv-Universal joints

2004 Daihatsu YRV universal joints — do they apply?

Short answer: it depends on the drivetrain. Technical sources show that a 2004 Daihatsu YRV in standard 2WD form doesn’t use driveline universal joints (U-joints), it runs constant velocity (CV) joints on the front half-shafts. However, the 4WD YRV variant does have a rear propeller shaft fitted with cross-type U-joints at its ends.

References used: the Daihatsu Electronic Parts Catalogue (YRV M2-series) lists CV-jointed front driveshafts for 2WD models and a propeller shaft assembly with universal joints for 4WD (often referenced under model codes such as M201G). The Daihatsu YRV workshop/service manual’s Driveline sections cover “Front Driveshaft (CV)” for 2WD and “Propeller Shaft (4WD)” with universal joints. Aftermarket parts catalogues also only list U-joint kits for the 4WD YRV, not for 2WD.

Why 2WD YRVs don’t use U-joints: being front-wheel drive, they rely on CV joints that deliver constant rotational speed through large steering and suspension angles, which a traditional U-joint can’t do smoothly. That’s why there’s no serviceable driveline U-joint in a 2WD YRV. Note: there is a small universal joint on the steering column intermediate shaft, but that’s a steering component, not a driveline U-joint.

• 2WD YRV: CV joints only (no driveline U-joints)
• 4WD YRV: rear propeller shaft with universal joints

For owners of a 2004 Daihatsu YRV 4WD, here’s the practical stuff. The U-joints on the rear prop shaft let the shaft change angle as the rear suspension moves, while still sending torque from the transaxle to the rear diff. When they wear, you’ll often notice a light chirp or squeak at low speed, a thud when shifting from Reverse to Drive, or a buzz/shudder under load around 60–90 km/h. Rust-coloured dust at a bearing cap or fresh grease sling marks are also tell-tales.

Most factory U-joints on these are sealed and non-greaseable, maintenance is inspection-based. At regular services (every 15,000–20,000 km is a good cadence), check for axial or radial play at the joint, damaged seals, and any binding when the shaft is articulated by hand. Also eyeball the centre support (if fitted) and the flange bolts for torque and corrosion.

If there’s play or roughness, replace the joint before it lets go and takes out the shaft or floorpan. Mark the yokes for alignment to maintain balance, use quality joints, and torque the flange hardware to spec. Some YRV prop shafts use staked-in joints, in that case, a driveshaft specialist can rebuild the shaft or supply an exchange unit. After any U-joint or shaft work, a road test for vibrations and a re-check of fasteners is smart. And for Kiwi and Aussie conditions, a quick underbody rinse after beach runs helps keep those caps from rusting up.

Not sure which you’ve got? Check the compliance plate and look under the car: a 4WD YRV has a prop shaft running to the rear diff, a 2WD doesn’t.

Popular questions

Does my 2004 Daihatsu YRV have universal joints?
Most 2WD YRVs don’t have driveline U-joints, they use CV joints only. The 4WD version has a rear propeller shaft with U-joints at each end. A quick look underneath will tell you—if there’s a shaft running to a rear diff, you’ve got U-joints.

What are the symptoms of a bad U-joint on a YRV 4WD?
Common signs include a chirp or squeak at low speeds, a clunk when selecting Drive/Reverse, and a vibration or shudder on acceleration or at certain speeds. You might also see rust dust around a bearing cap or fresh grease flung onto nearby panels.

How often should U-joints be serviced or replaced on a YRV 4WD?
They’re generally sealed, so think inspection rather than greasing. Have them checked every service or 15,000–20,000 km. Replace at the first sign of play, binding, or noise. If the joints are staked, a driveshaft rebuilder can fit serviceable replacements or supply an exchange shaft.