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Parts for your 2003 Toyota Wish-Strut mounts

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SAS Strut Mount - MT220RB

SAS Strut Mount - MT220RB

$308
Fitment Notes:
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SAS Strut Mount - MT961

SAS Strut Mount - MT961

$383
Fitment Notes:
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Kelpro Strut Mount - 24245

Kelpro Strut Mount - 24245

$393
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SAS Strut Mount - MT230

SAS Strut Mount - MT230

$147
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2003 Toyota Wish strut mounts — fitted up front and worth keeping in shape

Yes, strut mounts are relevant to the 2003 Toyota Wish. Technical documentation such as the Toyota Repair Manual for the ZNE10/ANE10 series (2003) and Toyota’s Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC) specify a MacPherson strut front suspension, which uses a strut mount (often listed as a front suspension support sub‑assembly). The common 2WD Wish runs a torsion beam at the rear with separate shocks and springs, so there’s no rear strut mount on those models.

Up front, the strut mount is the top interface between the MacPherson strut and the body. It locates the strut, carries vehicle weight via a bonded rubber insulator, and—on the steering axle—houses a bearing so the strut can rotate smoothly with the wheels. That little assembly does a big job: it isolates noise, vibration and harshness, helps keep alignment stable, and makes steering feel smooth and predictable.

On a 2003 Wish that’s clocked plenty of kilometres on Aussie or Kiwi roads, aged mounts can show up as clunks over bumps, a dull thud on take-off and braking, notchy or twangy steering at parking speeds, wandering or vague handling, and uneven tyre wear. Visible cracking or mushrooming of the rubber at the strut tower is another giveaway.

As part of routine servicing, it’s smart to inspect the front strut mounts whenever the front end is up for brakes, tyres, or shock checks. A quick spin-and-feel test of the bearing (with the strut out) and a look for perished rubber goes a long way. Many technicians replace the mounts when fitting new struts, because the labour overlaps and fresh mounts help new dampers perform properly.

  • Inspect at regular services, take a closer look every 20,000–30,000 km or if any noises develop.
  • Replace in left/right pairs to keep steering and braking behaviour even.
  • Use quality mounts with an integrated bearing, cheap copies can groan early.
  • Get a wheel alignment after any front strut or mount work.
  • If DIYing, use a proper spring compressor and mark camber bolts before removal.

For AWD or other variants, the front arrangement still uses strut mounts. Rear setups differ by model, but the 2WD’s rear shock-and-spring layout doesn’t use rear strut mounts, so searches for a “rear strut mount” on those cars won’t apply.

  • How can someone tell their 2003 Toyota Wish strut mounts are worn?
    Usually by feel and sound: clunks over sharp bumps, a creak or twang when turning at low speed, and a slight steering bind or return-to-centre reluctance. Tyre feathering and a small change in ride height at the tower can also point to tired mounts. A visual check of the top rubber for cracking or distortion is worthwhile.
  • Should the mounts be replaced whenever new front struts go in?
    Highly recommended. The labour overlaps, fresh bearings stop low-speed groans, and new rubber restores isolation and geometry stability. It’s false economy to refit a tired top mount on a brand-new strut—do both sides and book an alignment.
  • Does the 2003 Wish have rear strut mounts?
    On most 2WD models, no. The rear is a torsion beam with separate shocks and coils, so there’s no rear strut or strut top bearing. If browsing parts, look for rear shock mounts/bushes instead of “rear strut mounts”.