Parts for your 2001 Toyota Crown-Thrust bearing

2001 Toyota Crown thrust-bearing: what it does and when to replace it

Technical sources confirm the 2001 Toyota Crown does use a thrust-bearing in the engine. Toyota’s engine repair manuals for the 1G‑FE, 1JZ‑FSE and 2JZ‑FSE list crankshaft thrust clearance checks and specify thrust washers at a main bearing. The Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue for the S170 Crown also shows a “crankshaft thrust washer” in the crank assembly. So, yes—this model is fitted with thrust bearings that control crank end float.

The thrust-bearing (actually a pair of thrust washers integrated with a main bearing) keeps the crankshaft centred while absorbing axial loads from the torque converter or clutch, accessory belt pulls, and driveline reactions. By holding end float within spec, it maintains oil pump gear alignment, keeps the crank sprocket and pulley running true, and helps the engine run smoothly over hundreds of thousands of kilometres.

When the thrust-bearing wears, the crank can “walk” forward and back. Drivers might notice a change in belt alignment noises at idle, a knock when shifting into gear on autos, inconsistent idle when the A/C cycles, or fine metallic in the oil. On manual variants (less common in a Crown), depressing the clutch can worsen the symptoms. Excess end float also accelerates wear on the rear main seal and flexplate/flywheel.

There isn’t a scheduled replacement interval, but it’s smart to check end float any time the sump is off or during an engine refresh. A technician will set up a dial indicator on the crank pulley or flywheel, lever the crank fore and aft, and compare the measured end float to the spec in Toyota’s Engine Mechanical section. If it’s out of spec, new thrust washers of the correct thickness go in. Keeping clean oil, correct idle speed, and healthy transmission mounts helps reduce axial shock loads.

Replacement is straightforward workshop work: drain oil, drop the sump, remove the relevant main bearing cap (on JZ motors it’s commonly the centre main), slide out the old thrust washers, and install new ones with assembly lube. The cap is torqued to spec (and angle, if required), then end float is rechecked. It’s wise to inspect the mating surfaces on the crank and main cap, verify oil clearances, and reseal the sump properly. Genuine or high‑quality aftermarket washers matched to the measured clearance keep the Crown’s straight‑six purring.

• FAQs

What are the signs of a worn thrust-bearing on a 2001 Toyota Crown?
Look for a light knock or clunk when shifting into gear on an auto, visible crank pulley movement, belt squeal that comes and goes at idle, or extra metal in the oil. On manual variants, clutch‑in can make the noise worse. Excess crank end float can also hasten rear main seal leaks.

How do technicians check crankshaft end float on these engines?
They mount a dial indicator on the block, touch the tip to the crank pulley or flywheel, then lever the crank forwards and backwards. The movement shown is compared to the Toyota spec in the engine manual. If it’s beyond limits, thrust washers of suitable thickness are fitted and the clearance is re‑measured.

Does an automatic Crown have a clutch release (thrust) bearing?
No. The automatic uses a torque converter, so there’s no clutch release bearing like on a manual. The engine still has crankshaft thrust washers, and the transmission has its own internal thrust elements, but these are addressed during gearbox overhaul rather than routine servicing.