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Parts for your 2001 Toyota Bb-Strut mounts

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SAS Strut Mount - MT220RB

SAS Strut Mount - MT220RB

$308
Fitment Notes:
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SAS Strut Mount - MT961

SAS Strut Mount - MT961

$383
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SAS Strut Mount - MT231

SAS Strut Mount - MT231

$144
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SAS Strut Mount - MT253

SAS Strut Mount - MT253

$117
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2001 Toyota bB strut mounts — what they are, and when to sort them

Technical sources confirm the 2001 Toyota bB (chassis NCP30/NCP31) runs MacPherson struts at the front with dedicated strut top mounts. Toyota’s New Car Features (NCF) for the NCP30/31 series and the Toyota Repair Manual (Suspension—Front) specify a MacPherson layout with an upper support/bearing assembly (strut mount). Toyota’s Electronic Parts Catalogue also lists a “Support Sub-Assembly, Front Shock Absorber” for the front end. The rear is a torsion-beam with separate shocks and springs, so no rear strut mounts are used.

On the 2001 Toyota bB, the front strut mounts do a few big jobs: they carry vehicle load at the top of the strut, isolate noise and vibration so the cabin stays quiet, and let the strut rotate smoothly as the wheels steer. Inside the mount is a rubber insulator and a bearing. The rubber keeps harshness out of the bodyshell, while the bearing allows easy steering without the spring binding. When those parts get tired, knocks over bumps, creaks when turning the wheel, and vague steering tend to creep in.

For servicing, it’s worth giving the strut tops a look every 20–30,000 km or whenever the front end is apart. With the bonnet up, have someone turn the wheel lock-to-lock while listening at each tower, graunching, clicking, or spring “twang” noises point to a worn bearing or perished rubber. Other clues include clunks on rough roads, steering that won’t self-centre properly, and uneven tyre wear (feathering or cupping).

If replacement’s on the cards, it’s smart to do both front mounts together. Use quality OE or reputable aftermarket mounts and replace the bearing, upper insulator, and dust boot/bump stop while you’re in there. The job needs a proper spring compressor and attention to orientation marks on the mount (many have an arrow that must face outboard). Torque everything to spec and book a wheel alignment afterwards, a fresh alignment protects tyres and restores tidy steering feel. If the struts are older or leaking, consider fitting new struts at the same time to save on labour and keep the ride consistent.

  • Watch for: knocking over speed humps, creaking when turning, front-end shimmy, and visible cracks in the rubber.
  • Good practice: replace in pairs, fit new bearings/insulators, and align the front end after any strut-top work.
  • DIY tip: if a spring compressor or torque specs are unfamiliar territory, leave it to a pro—compressed springs can bite.

Does the 2001 bB have strut mounts front and rear?

It has strut mounts at the front only. The rear uses a torsion-beam with separate shocks and springs, so the rear has shock top bushes rather than strut mounts.

This means most mount-related noises or steering quirks will show up at the front of the car.

How long do front strut mounts last on a 2001 bB?

Plenty make it past 120,000–160,000 km, but life depends on roads, climate, and load. Heat, age, and potholes harden the rubber and wear the bearing.

Once noises, binding, or sloppy steering appear, replacement is the fix—don’t wait for tyres to suffer.

Can worn strut mounts cause tyre wear or steering shake?

Yes. A collapsing mount or rough bearing can alter steering geometry on the move, leading to feathered or cupped tyres and a shimmy over bumps.

After replacing mounts, getting a proper wheel alignment will tidy up the steering and protect the tyres.

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