Parts for your 2001 Mitsubishi Pajero-Wheel studs nuts

2001 Mitsubishi Pajero wheel studs and nuts — what they do and how to look after them

On the 2001 Mitsubishi Pajero (NM series), the wheels are fastened with wheel studs and nuts, not wheel bolts. This is confirmed by Mitsubishi’s factory service information for the NM/NP Pajero chassis and the Mitsubishi electronic parts catalogue, which both list six wheel studs per hub with matching nuts for this model. Factory documentation also outlines hub procedures that involve pressing studs in from the rear of the flange — something you simply don’t do with bolt-mounted wheels — making it clear this Pajero is a studs-and-nuts setup.

Wheel studs and nuts have a simple brief: clamp the wheel evenly to the hub so it stays put across corrugations, sand, and tarmac. The Pajero runs a 6-stud pattern (6 x 139.7), and depending on the factory wheel, the nuts may be a flat-seat shank style (common on OEM alloys) or 60-degree taper-seat (often on steelies). Either way, clean threads and the correct nut-to-seat style are vital for proper clamping and for avoiding vibration or fretting.

As part of routine servicing, it’s smart to:

• Inspect studs and nuts for stretched threads, rust pitting, galling, or ovalled seats — especially if the vehicle sees beach work or frequent wheel swaps.
• Confirm the correct seat style for the wheel being fitted (shank/washer vs cone). Mixing styles can crack wheels or loosen nuts.
• Torque wheel nuts to the specification in the owner’s/service manual (typically around the low‑hundreds of N·m for this platform). Recheck after 50–100 km following a wheel change or rotation.
• Keep threads dry and free of lubricants or anti-seize unless a Mitsubishi procedure explicitly states otherwise, torque figures assume dry, clean threads.

If a stud is damaged or a nut won’t run smoothly by hand, replace the affected parts as a set. On the Pajero, replacement usually means removing the wheel and brake rotor, driving the old stud out from the rear of the hub flange, and pressing or drawing the new stud in squarely. Use quality, correct-length studs (M12 x 1.5 is commonly specified for this model) and matching nuts. After fitment, torque the nuts in a star pattern and perform a short shakedown drive, then recheck torque. For vehicles that tow or tour long distances, adding a stud-and-nut inspection to every second service is a cheap bit of insurance.

Done right, the Pajero’s studs and nuts will go the distance, even with big kilometres and the odd muddy detour.

Popular questions about 2001 Mitsubishi Pajero wheel studs and nuts

What’s the correct wheel nut torque for a 2001 Pajero?
Mitsubishi specifies torque in the service/owner’s manual for the exact wheel and nut style. Expect a figure in the typical SUV range in the low-hundreds of N·m. Always use a torque wrench on clean, dry threads and recheck after 50–100 km.

How can someone tell if a Pajero wheel stud is stretched or damaged?
Look for necking near the base of the threads, shiny pulled threads, or a nut that never seems to “seat” at torque. Any stud that has been over‑torqued, cross‑threaded, or shows rust pitting should be replaced immediately.

Can cone-seat nuts be used on factory Pajero alloy wheels?
Not if the wheel is designed for flat-seat shank nuts with a washer. Using the wrong seat style can crack the wheel or work the nuts loose. Match the nut style to the wheel’s seat design and hub-centric ring arrangement.