Parts for your 2000 Toyota Crown-Driveshafts

2000 Toyota Crown driveshafts — what they do and how to look after them

Driveshafts absolutely are relevant on the 2000 Toyota Crown (S170 series). Factory technical sources confirm it’s a longitudinal drivetrain: a rear-wheel drive layout with a propeller shaft running from the transmission to the rear differential, plus two rear CV half-shafts. Some trims (often badged “Royal Saloon Four”) feature full-time 4WD, which adds a front propeller shaft and front drive shafts. References: Toyota Crown S170 Factory Service Manual (Drivetrain/Axle – Propeller Shaft and Rear Drive Shaft sections), Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC) listings for JZS171/JZS173/GS171 variants, and contemporary Toyota Crown technical brochures detailing the IRS rear end with CV half-shafts. So yes — driveshafts are fitted and matter to this car.

On this Crown, the propeller shaft transmits torque to the rear diff, and the rear CV shafts send that twist to each wheel through the independent rear suspension. The result is smooth, quiet cruising when everything’s healthy. When wear creeps in — dry or torn CV boots, clicking joints, a flogged centre support bearing, or U-joint play — you’ll hear it or feel it.

Typical symptoms owners notice:

• Clunks on take‑off or gear changes, vibration that worsens with speed, or a droning/whirring from underneath.
• Clicking on tight turns (CV joints), grease splatter near a torn boot, or shudder on acceleration (centre bearing or U-joints).

Good servicing habits go a long way:

• Inspect the prop shaft U-joints and the centre support bearing every 20,000–30,000 km, check for play and split rubbers.
• Look over CV boots at each service. If a boot’s torn, replace the boot and re-grease the joint promptly to avoid joint damage.
• If the shaft’s removed, mark the flanges and refit in the same orientation to preserve balance. Use fresh flange bolts if specified and torque to factory spec.
• Aftermarket or reconditioned shafts are fine, but insist on quality joints and balanced assemblies to keep NVH in check.

Replacement is straightforward for a workshop: support the exhaust and centre bearing, mark the flanges, drop the shaft, and refit with new hardware where required. For the rear CV shafts, expect hub nut removal, lower arm or knuckle swing-out, and careful handling of seals. Any sign of heavy rust pitting, blueing, or gritty joint feel means it’s time for replacement rather than a patch-up.

Look after the Crown’s driveshafts and it’ll stay buttery-smooth on the motorway and calm over the rough stuff — exactly how a proper Toyota sedan should feel.

Popular questions

How long do the driveshafts last on a 2000 Crown?
With intact boots and regular checks, many go well past 200,000 km. The main killers are split CV boots (losing grease, letting grit in) and worn centre support bearings. Once contamination starts, joint life can shorten quickly.

Is a vibration at 90–110 km/h likely to be the prop shaft?
Often, yes. It can be an out-of-balance prop shaft, tired U-joints, or a failing centre bearing. Do rule out tyres and wheels first, then inspect the shaft for play and deteriorated rubbers.

Can a torn CV boot be repaired, or does the whole shaft need replacing?
If caught early, a new boot and fresh grease will usually save the joint. If there’s clicking, rust-coloured grease, or noticeable play, replacing the half-shaft is the smarter, longer-lasting fix.