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Parts for your 2000 Toyota Crown-Crank angle sensor
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2000 Toyota Crown crank-angle sensor: what it does and how to look after it
Yes, the 2000 Toyota Crown uses a crank-angle sensor (often called the crankshaft position sensor or CKP). Technical sources that confirm this include the Toyota Electronic Parts Catalogue for the S170-series Crown (e.g., JZS171/GS171/UZS171, 1999–2003) which lists a “Sensor, Crank Position,” the Toyota engine control (SFI) service manuals for 1JZ‑GE/2JZ‑GE and 1G‑FE engines describing the NE signal from the crank sensor to the ECM, and the Crown S170 Electrical Wiring Diagram showing the NE input and related DTCs (such as P0335/P0336). It’s a core input for ignition and injection on these engines, so it’s absolutely relevant to this model year.
On a 2000 Toyota Crown, the crank-angle sensor tracks the crankshaft’s exact speed and position, feeding a precise NE signal to the engine computer. The ECM uses that info to fire the spark at the right moment, time the fuel injection, and manage VVT‑i where fitted. If the signal drops out, the car can be hard to start, run rough, stall at idle, or refuse to fire altogether. The tacho might flicker, and fault codes like P0335 or P0336 can pop up.
It’s not a scheduled “wear item,” but it pays to give it some attention during servicing. Under the bonnet, the sensor sits at the front timing cover near the crank pulley on the common 1JZ/2JZ and 1G‑FE engines. A quick visual once-over goes a long way: check the connector for corrosion, the wiring for chafe near the belts and A/C compressor, and look for oil contamination from a weeping front main seal. If the sensor is magnetic, a light build-up of metal fuzz on the tip can affect the signal. With a scan tool, confirm the ECM sees a steady cranking RPM, with an oscilloscope, you can verify a clean NE waveform.
Replacement is straightforward with basic spanners: disconnect the battery negative, access the sensor at the timing cover, unplug it, remove the retaining bolt, twist the sensor out, and fit a new O‑ring before installing the replacement. Lightly oil the O‑ring, route the loom clear of pulleys and heat, and torque the bolt to the workshop manual spec. Clear codes and check hot and cold starts. Go for a genuine or quality OEM-brand sensor—cheap knock‑offs can cause intermittent cut‑outs once warm. Typical labour is around 0.5–1.0 hour. If the car has intermittent stalls after long drives, or starts fine cold but not hot, the crank sensor is a prime suspect.
- Common symptoms: long crank/no start, random stalls, rough idle, poor fuel economy, tacho drop-out, DTC P0335/P0336.
- Service tips: keep the connector clean and dry, fix oil leaks promptly, and secure the harness away from sharp edges and exhaust heat.
Popular questions about 2000 Toyota Crown crank-angle sensors
Where is the crank-angle sensor on a 2000 Toyota Crown?
On S170 Crowns with 1JZ‑GE/2JZ‑GE or 1G‑FE engines, it’s typically mounted at the front of the engine on the timing cover, close to the crank pulley. Access is from under the bonnet, on some trims it’s easier with the front splash guard off for hand room.
What fault codes point to a bad crank-angle sensor?
The usual suspects are P0335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit) and P0336 (range/performance). You might also see misfire codes alongside if the signal drops intermittently. Always check wiring and the connector before condemning the sensor itself.
Can a crank-angle sensor be cleaned, or should it be replaced?
If it’s just light metallic debris on a magnetic tip, a careful clean can restore a good signal. If the sensor is cracked, oil-soaked internally, or fails resistance/waveform checks, replacement is the go. Fit a new O‑ring and keep the area free from oil leaks to prevent repeat issues.