Parts for your 2000 Mitsubishi Pajero-Cluth slave cylinder

2000 Mitsubishi Pajero cluth-slave-cylinder: what it does and when to sort it out

Based on technical sources including the Mitsubishi Pajero NM/NP Workshop Manual (Clutch section) and mainstream repair guides for the 1999–2006 Pajero/Montero/Shogun, the 2000 Mitsubishi Pajero manual-transmission models use a hydraulic clutch system with a master cylinder and a cluth-slave-cylinder mounted on the gearbox bellhousing. Automatic-transmission Pajeros don’t have or need a cluth-slave-cylinder, so the part only applies to manuals.

The cluth-slave-cylinder converts hydraulic pressure from the clutch master into mechanical movement at the clutch fork. Press the pedal, fluid pressure pushes the slave’s piston, the fork moves, and the pressure plate releases the clutch so gears can be selected smoothly. In the real world, that means lighter pedal effort, consistent take-up, and less faff when shifting—especially handy when towing or tackling steep, rutted tracks across Aussie and Kiwi backroads.

As part of routine servicing, the cluth-slave-cylinder deserves a quick look. It lives low on the bellhousing, cops heat, road grime, and the odd dunking. Seals can harden, the dust boot can split, and moisture can invite corrosion.

• Typical symptoms of a crook cluth-slave-cylinder:
  • Spongy or sinking clutch pedal
  • Difficulty engaging reverse or first when stopped
  • Visible fluid weep at the slave body or boot
  • Low or dark clutch fluid in the reservoir
  • Pedal feel changing as the vehicle warms up

1. Inspection: At each service, check the slave’s dust boot for tears, the line unions for dampness, and the mounting bolts for tightness.
2. Fluid: Use the specified brake fluid (typically DOT 3 or DOT 4). If it’s murky, flush and bleed the clutch circuit. Bleed nipple is on the slave—use a line spanner to avoid rounding.
3. Replacement: If leaking or sticking, swap the cluth-slave-cylinder. It’s a straightforward job: isolate the reservoir, crack the line, unbolt the slave, fit the new unit with fresh crush washers if applicable, then bleed until pedal feel is crisp.
4. Related checks: Inspect the flexible clutch hose and the master cylinder, a failing master can mimic slave issues.
5. Parts choice: Quality OEM or reputable aftermarket slaves last longer, especially for touring and off-road use.

Don’t ignore early warning signs—left to worsen, a failing cluth-slave-cylinder can strand the Pajero or chew through the clutch. Keeping it tidy means smoother shifts and less wear on the driveline.

Popular questions about the 2000 Mitsubishi Pajero cluth-slave-cylinder

Does every 2000 Pajero have a cluth-slave-cylinder?
No—only manual-transmission models do. Automatics don’t use a clutch pedal or hydraulic clutch circuit, so there’s no cluth-slave-cylinder fitted. If the Pajero has a clutch pedal, it has a master and a slave.

How often should the cluth-slave-cylinder be bled or serviced?
Check fluid level and condition at every service. In harsh conditions or after water crossings, bleeding annually is a good shout. If the pedal goes spongy or gear engagement gets notchy, bleed it sooner and inspect for leaks.

Can the cluth-slave-cylinder be replaced at home?
Yes, for a competent DIYer with basic tools and a bleed kit. Expect an hour or two. Take care with the hydraulic line fittings, keep everything clean, and always finish with a thorough bleed to restore a firm pedal.