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Parts for your 2000 Honda Stream-Cluth slave cylinder
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2000 Honda Stream cluth-slave-cylinder — what’s fitted and how to look after it
For the 2000 Honda Stream (RN1–RN5), a cluth-slave-cylinder is used on models with the 5-speed manual gearbox, and not used on automatic or CVT variants. This is backed by technical documentation: the Honda Stream Workshop/Service Manual (2000–2006) shows a hydraulic clutch system with master and slave cylinders for 5MT models in the Clutch—Hydraulic System section, while the Automatic Transmission and CVT sections contain no clutch actuator. Likewise, Honda’s Electronic Parts Catalogue lists a “Cylinder, Clutch Slave” for RN1/RN2 5MT applications, with no equivalent part for AT or CVT models. So it’s relevant for manual Streams, and not applicable to auto or CVT versions.
On manual 2000 Honda Stream models, the cluth-slave-cylinder is a small hydraulic actuator bolted to the gearbox housing. When the driver presses the clutch pedal, the master cylinder sends fluid pressure down a line to the slave, which pushes the clutch fork to disengage the clutch. It’s a simple, reliable bit of kit that makes gear changes smooth and drama-free.
Over time, seals can harden or wear, leading to a spongy pedal, difficulty selecting gears, or visible fluid weeping around the bellhousing or rubber boot on the clutch fork. Owners might also notice the clutch bite point drifting or the fluid level dropping in the shared brake/clutch reservoir on the firewall.
Good servicing habits help the slave live a long life:
- Check the fluid level regularly and top up with the correct brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4 as specified on the reservoir cap).
- Inspect hoses, the slave body, and the fork boot for dampness or leaks every 10,000–15,000 km.
- Bleed the clutch circuit when the fluid’s dark, after clutch work, or roughly every 2 years/40,000 km to keep moisture and air at bay.
If replacement’s on the cards, it’s smart to consider doing the master cylinder at the same time, as tired pairs can chase problems back and forth. Quality OEM or reputable aftermarket slaves fit neatly and last. The job is straightforward for a competent home mechanic: crack the line, undo the mounting bolts, swap the unit, then bleed until the pedal feels firm. Always torque fasteners to spec per the Honda manual, use fresh fluid from a sealed bottle, and keep any drips off paintwork.
After fitting, a quick road test should confirm a consistent bite point and clean shifts. If the pedal still feels airy, another careful bleed usually sorts it. On automatic or CVT Streams, none of this applies because there’s no clutch pedal or slave cylinder in the system.
Popular questions about the 2000 Honda Stream cluth-slave-cylinder
Is a cluth-slave-cylinder fitted to my 2000 Honda Stream?
Only if it’s a 5-speed manual. Automatic and CVT models don’t have a clutch pedal or a slave cylinder. Unsure which you’ve got? A manual Stream will have a clutch pedal and a small hydraulic cylinder mounted on the gearbox with a hose running to it.
What fluid does the cluth-slave-cylinder use, and how often should it be changed?
It uses standard brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4, as marked on the reservoir). Fresh fluid every 2 years or about 40,000 km helps prevent internal corrosion and keeps the pedal feel nice and consistent.
Can I keep driving with a leaking cluth-slave-cylinder?
It’s risky. A minor seep can turn into a sudden loss of hydraulic pressure, making it hard or impossible to disengage the clutch. Topping up might buy time, but prompt repair or replacement is the safe bet.