Parts for your 2000 Holden Commodore-Cluth slave cylinder

2000 Holden Commodore cluth-slave-cylinder: what it is and when it matters

Based on technical references used by workshops — the Holden VT/VX Service Manual (covering 1997–2002 models), GMH parts catalogues, and gearbox documentation for the Getrag 5‑speed (V6) and Tremec T56 6‑speed (V8) — a cluth-slave-cylinder is fitted to manual 2000 Holden Commodore models. Manual V6 cars use a hydraulic external slave that pushes a clutch fork, while many V8/T56 cars run a concentric (internal) slave/throwout bearing assembly. Automatic Commodores don’t have a clutch system at all, so a cluth-slave-cylinder isn’t relevant on autos.

On a manual 2000 Commodore, the cluth-slave-cylinder converts pedal pressure into hydraulic force to move the release mechanism and cleanly disengage the clutch. In day-to-day driving it’s the unsung hero behind a light pedal and tidy gear changes. The V6’s external unit bolts to the bellhousing and works a fork, the V8’s concentric style sits inside the bellhousing around the input shaft, doubling as the release bearing.

There’s no fixed replacement interval, they’re serviced on condition. Tell-tales include a spongy pedal, difficulty selecting gears at a standstill, creeping bite point, visible fluid at the slave or under the bellhousing, or the clutch reservoir mysteriously dropping fluid. If one end of the system fails, it’s common to replace the master and slave together and flush the lines to keep everything happy.

• Fluid: Use the brake/clutch fluid specified on the reservoir cap (typically DOT 4 non‑silicone in AU/NZ). Keep it clean, moisture and grime shorten seal life.
• Bleeding: External slaves are straightforward to bleed at the nipple. Concentric slaves often benefit from bench‑prefill and pressure bleeding to push out trapped air.
• Replacement tips:
  • External (V6/Getrag): Support the car safely, disconnect the line, swap the unit, then bleed until the pedal is firm.
  • Concentric (V8/T56): The gearbox must come out. It’s smart to fit a complete clutch kit, inspect the spigot bush and rear main seal, and check release bearing height/shim per the manual.
• Upgrades: A braided clutch line can sharpen pedal feel and resist heat soak.

Avoid spilling fluid on paint, and always torque fasteners to spec from the factory manual. For an auto 2000 Commodore, none of this applies — there’s no clutch, so no cluth-slave-cylinder to service.

FAQs

How can someone tell their 2000 Commodore’s cluth-slave-cylinder is failing?
Look for a soft or sinking pedal, notchiness selecting first or reverse when stationary, a bite point that keeps moving, or dampness around the slave or at the bottom of the bellhousing. A dropping clutch fluid level without obvious external leaks is another red flag.

Is bleeding the cluth-slave-cylinder a DIY job on these cars?
On V6 Getrag cars with an external slave, yes — it’s typically a quick two-person or pressure-bleed job. On V8 Tremec T56 cars with a concentric slave, bleeding is fussier, bench-prefilling the unit and using a pressure bleeder helps. If the gearbox has to come out to replace the internal slave, most owners get a workshop to handle it.

What fluid should be used in the clutch system?
Use high-quality brake/clutch fluid as marked on the reservoir cap — typically DOT 4 in Australia and New Zealand. Don’t mix with silicone fluids. Refreshing the fluid every couple of years helps keep seals healthy and the pedal feel consistent.