Parts for your 2000 Daihatsu Yrv-Cv joint

2000 Daihatsu YRV CV joint: what it does and how to look after it

Yes, the 2000 Daihatsu YRV uses CV joints. Technical references that confirm this include the Daihatsu YRV (J102/J122) workshop manual drivetrain/axle section, which details a front driveshaft with an inboard plunging tripod joint and an outboard Rzeppa-type constant velocity joint, plus boot kits and joint sets. The Daihatsu Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC) lists complete front driveshaft assemblies, outer joint kits and boots for YRV variants, and major aftermarket catalogues (GKN/Lobro, NTN/SKF) carry outer CV joint listings for 2000 YRV front-wheel-drive and 4WD models.

On the 2000 Daihatsu YRV, the CV joint’s job is to send engine torque to the front wheels smoothly while the suspension moves and the wheels steer. The outboard (hub-side) joint is usually a Rzeppa design that copes with big steering angles, while the inboard (gearbox-side) tripod joint allows length changes as the suspension compresses. When these are healthy and packed with the right grease, the YRV feels tidy on turn-in, quiet over bumps and free of shudders on acceleration.

Servicing is mostly about keeping the rubber boots intact and the grease clean. A good workshop will check the CV boots at every service (or roughly every 10,000–15,000 km). If there’s grease flung around the inner rim or lower control arm, or a split boot, it’s time to act before grit chews out the joint. Catching a torn boot early and fitting a quality boot kit with fresh high-moly CV grease can save the original joint.

Replacement is straight-forward for a pro and doable for a confident DIYer with the right tools. Typically it involves removing the staked hub nut, freeing the lower arm/knuckle, sliding the shaft out of the hub and gearbox, then swapping the outer joint or fitting a complete shaft. Always use new boot clamps, fresh grease and a new hub nut, and torque everything to spec from the YRV service manual. If the joint clicks on tight turns (especially when accelerating), vibrates under load, or there’s axial play you can feel by hand, replacement is the safer bet. High-kilometre cars or ones that have run with split boots often justify a complete driveshaft assembly rather than just an outer joint. For 4WD YRV variants, keep an eye on output and diff seals while the shaft’s out.

• Watch for: clicking while turning, thuds on take-off, grease spray near the wheel, torn boots.
• Service tip: clean the area after repairs and recheck for grease seepage after a short drive.

Popular questions about 2000 Daihatsu YRV CV joints

How often should the CV boots be checked on a 2000 YRV?
They’re best inspected at every routine service or about every 10,000–15,000 km. If the car sees gravel roads, heavy rain, or lots of steering lock in tight carparks, look more often. Early boot repairs prevent costly joint replacements.

Is a clicking noise on full lock always the outer CV joint?
It’s the most common cause on a FWD YRV, especially if the clicking gets louder with throttle. But don’t rule out a loose hub nut, a worn wheel bearing or pad movement in the caliper. A quick road test and a visual check for boot damage and grease usually points in the right direction.

Should the whole driveshaft be replaced or just the joint?
If the joint’s noisy and the shaft splines and bearings look tidy, an outer joint kit is fine. On high-kilometre cars, or if there’s rust pitting, play in the tripod bearings, or long-term boot failure, a complete shaft can be more reliable and not much dearer once labour is counted.