Parts for your 1999 Subaru Forester-Bump stops

1999 Subaru Forester bump-stops: what they do and how to look after them

Bump-stops (also called jounce bumpers) are absolutely fitted to the 1999 Subaru Forester (SF series). Technical sources that confirm their use include: the Subaru Factory Service Manual for MY1999 Forester, which lists “bump rubber” within both front and rear MacPherson strut assemblies, Subaru OEM parts catalogues that show the bump rubber and dust boot as service parts for the front and rear struts, and aftermarket catalogues from major strut manufacturers (e.g., KYB/Monroe) that supply boot-and-bump-stop kits specifically for 1998–2002 Forester struts. So they’re a normal, wear-prone component of the suspension, not an optional extra.

On this Forester, the bump-stop sits under the dust boot on the strut rod. Its job is to softly catch the suspension at full compression so metal doesn’t hammer metal when the car hits big bumps, corrugations, or lands a pothole at speed. By progressively increasing resistance near the end of travel, the bump-stop protects the strut internals, top mounts, springs, and body structure, and helps stop the tyre smacking the inner guard. The result is better ride control and fewer nasty clunks when the track gets rough.

Because they’re made from foam or microcellular polyurethane, bump-stops age. Heat, time, oil contamination from a weeping strut, and repeated hard bottoming can make them crack, crumble, or collapse. Once they’re perished, the Forester will feel harsh on big hits, may thud at full compression, and the dust boots are often torn as well.

Good servicing practice on a 1999 Forester is to:

• Inspect bump-stops and boots whenever the struts are out, or roughly every 80,000–100,000 km, sooner if driving on corrugations, gravel, or with loads.
• Replace bump-stops in axle pairs and fit new dust boots at the same time. They’re inexpensive and make a real difference.
• Address any strut oil leaks—oil-soaked bump-stops won’t last.
• If lifting the vehicle, consider slightly longer or firmer bump-stops to protect CVs and strut tops at full compression, if lowering, use manufacturer-recommended parts rather than cutting OE stops.

Fitting bump-stops requires spring removal, so a proper spring compressor and safe workshop practice are essential. It’s a straightforward add-on to a strut refresh, and most owners do them when replacing shocks, springs, or top mounts. Keeping the bump-stops healthy helps the old SF Forester ride nicer and keeps the hard bits out of trouble when the road disappears.

Popular questions

How can someone tell their 1999 Forester’s bump-stops need replacing?
Typical signs include a harsh thud on big bumps, torn or missing dust boots, and visible cracking or crumbling of the foam when the strut is out. If the suspension regularly bottoms on speed humps or rough tracks, the stops may be tired or oil-soaked from a leaking strut.

Most workshops check them whenever struts are serviced. If the car has high kilometres, does towing, or sees plenty of corrugations, it’s smart to replace the bump-stops and boots as preventative maintenance.

Do lift kits or heavier springs change what bump-stops are needed?
Often, yes. A modest lift can benefit from slightly longer or denser bump-stops to control end-of-travel impacts and protect CV joints and top mounts. Heavier-rate springs can also hit the stops harder, so using quality stops with the right durometer helps.

It’s best to match bump-stops to the actual travel and tyre setup—many suspension suppliers provide guidance for SF Foresters with lifts.

Can worn bump-stops cause clunks or damage?
They can. Once the stop is perished, the strut can slam into its mechanical limits, which feels and sounds nasty. Repeated bottoming can stress strut mounts, fatigue springs, and even mark inner guards.

Replacing the stops (and boots) is cheap insurance against that sort of wear, and usually improves ride quality straight away.