Parts for your 1999 Mitsubishi Pajero-Cv boots

1999 Mitsubishi Pajero CV boots: purpose, care, and when to replace

Technical sources confirm CV boots are absolutely relevant to the 1999 Mitsubishi Pajero. The Mitsubishi Motors Pajero/Montero V2–V8 Series Factory Service Manual (Front Axle/Drive Shafts sections) and the Mitsubishi ASA electronic parts catalogue for the 1991–1999 second‑gen Pajero (and late‑1999 NM third‑gen) both list front drive shafts with inner and outer constant‑velocity (CV) joints protected by rubber boots. Rear driveline is a solid axle on these models, so the CV boots concern the independent front suspension only.

On a 1999 Pajero, the CV boots do the quiet but crucial job of keeping special moly grease in the CV joints and dust, water, and grit out. There are two per side: an outer (Rzeppa) boot near the wheel hub and an inner (tripod) boot at the diff end. They flex constantly with steering and suspension travel, whether the Pajero is in 2H or 4H, so they cop a fair workout on Aussie and Kiwi roads and tracks.

If a boot splits, grease gets flung around the guard and strut, water sneaks in, and the joint can start clicking on turns or vibrating under load. Leave it long enough and the joint will chew itself out, risking a much pricier driveshaft or hub repair. That’s why regular inspection is part of smart servicing for any Pajero that tows, tours, or tackles corrugations and creek crossings.

Good practice for owners and workshops includes:

• Inspecting inner and outer boots every service (around 10,000–15,000 km) and after heavy off‑road or water work.
• Looking for fine cracks, splits at the bellows, loose clamps, or fresh grease spray.
• Replacing a compromised boot early and repacking the joint with the correct high‑moly CV grease.
• Using quality OEM‑spec neoprene or thermoplastic boots and proper banding tools for clamps.

When a boot has only just torn and the joint’s still quiet with no play, a boot‑only repair with a clean and re‑grease is typically fine. If there’s clicking on full lock, corrosion, or blueing from heat, it’s safer to replace the joint or complete shaft. Labour normally runs about 1.5–3.0 hours per side depending on equipment and rust. Always follow the factory manual for axle nut torque and hub/knuckle procedures, and recheck after a short shakedown drive.

Off‑roaders should avoid blasting the boots with a pressure washer, rinse mud gently, and keep an eye on them after long, hot runs on gravel where stones can nick the rubber. A little vigilance goes a long way to keeping that Super Select Pajero smooth and quiet.

Q: How can an owner tell if a Pajero CV boot is failing?

A: Common hints include grease splatter on the inner guard, control arms, or shock body, and visible cracking or tears in the boot bellows. If left, the CV joint may start clicking on tight turns or cause a shudder under acceleration, especially in 4H.

Q: Is it okay to tape or cable‑tie a torn boot for a trip home?

A: It’s a last‑ditch, short‑distance patch at best. Tape won’t seal out grit or water for long, and it won’t hold grease when the joint warms up. The sensible move is a proper boot replacement and re‑grease as soon as practical.

Q: Boot only or whole shaft—what’s the smarter fix?

A: If the tear is recent and the joint is quiet with no play, a boot kit with fresh grease and clamps is cost‑effective. If there’s clicking, corrosion, or metal flake in the old grease, a new CV joint or complete shaft is the better bet for reliability.