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Parts for your 1999 Holden Barina-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob 300A (Contacts Rated 300A @ 12V) - 61045BL
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
1999 Holden Barina engine-mount
Technical sources confirm the 1999 Holden Barina (SB series, based on the Opel Corsa B) uses engine mounts. Factory service information (Opel/Vauxhall TIS for Corsa B), the Gregory’s Service and Repair Manual for Holden Barina SB (1997–2001), and the Haynes manual for Vauxhall/Opel Corsa B (1993–2000) all describe multiple powertrain mounts: a right-hand engine mount, a left-hand transmission mount, and a lower torque reaction mount (“dog-bone”) to the subframe.
On a 1999 Barina, the engine mounts do a deceptively big job: they hold the powertrain in place, keep the driveline aligned, and soak up vibration so the cabin stays quiet and comfy. With a transverse four-cylinder under the bonnet, this Barina typically runs a hydraulic mount on the timing side, a rubber mount on the gearbox side, and a lower torque link to control fore–aft rock under throttle and braking. When these mounts are healthy, gear shifts feel clean, idle is smooth, and there’s no thud when taking off or lifting off.
Over time, rubber can crack or collapse, and hydraulic mounts can seep fluid. That’s when owners notice extra vibration at idle, a shake through the steering wheel, or a clunk as the engine rocks on and off the power. Catching that early saves stress on exhaust flex joints, driveshafts, and even the shifter cables.
As part of servicing a Barina, it’s smart to visually check all mounts every 10,000–15,000 km or at each oil change. Look for perished rubber, separated bonding, collapsed height, and any fluid weeping from the hydraulic mount. Have a helper blip the throttle in Drive/1st with the brakes held while you watch for excessive engine movement (bonnet up, stay well clear of hot or moving parts).
- Common signs they’re due: stronger vibration at idle, clunks on gear changes, knocking over bumps, and a droopy engine angle.
- Typical lifespan varies: city heat and stop–start can shorten life, many last 120–180,000 km.
Replacement is straightforward for a pro and very doable for an experienced DIYer with stands and a jack. Support the engine from below with a block of wood on the jack, change one mount at a time, and torque fasteners to spec from the service manual. On the Barina, don’t lever hard against alloy casings, replace any single‑use (stretch) bolts, and inspect the lower torque link bushes while you’re there. After fitting, recheck idle NVH, and make sure there’s good clearance on the exhaust and radiator hoses. Quality OEM or reputable aftermarket mounts will restore that smooth, tidy feel the SB Barina is known for.
FAQs
How many engine mounts does a 1999 Holden Barina have?
Most SB Barinas run three primary mounts: a right-hand (timing side) engine mount, a left-hand transmission mount, and a lower torque reaction mount linking the powertrain to the subframe. Some variants may use slightly different designs, but the three-point layout is standard per Holden/Opel service info.
This trio controls vertical support and fore–aft movement, keeping the driveline aligned and vibration in check.
What are the symptoms of worn engine mounts on a Barina?
Expect more buzz through the cabin at idle, a thud when shifting or taking off, and visible engine rock under light throttle. You might also hear knocks over bumps as the engine shifts on decel/accel.
Left too long, worn mounts can stress exhaust flex joints and driveshafts, so it’s worth inspecting and replacing before that happens.
Can engine mounts be replaced at home?
Yes, if comfortable with jacking and stands. Support the engine, replace one mount at a time, and torque to spec. The lower torque link is usually the quickest, the side mounts take a bit more care aligning studs and brackets.
If tools are limited or corrosion is heavy, a workshop can typically sort a mount in about 1–2 hours per side, depending on the mount and access.