Parts for your 1998 Subaru Forester-Wheel studs nuts

1998 Subaru Forester wheel studs and nuts

Based on the Subaru Forester (SF series) Factory Service Manual, Subaru Genuine Parts catalogues for MY98, and typical Subaru chassis specs of the era, the 1998 Subaru Forester runs press-in wheel studs with matching wheel nuts on a 5x100 hub. They’re absolutely relevant to this model, using M12 x 1.25 threads with a 60° tapered-seat nut.

On this Forester, wheel studs and nuts do the heavy lifting of clamping the wheel and brake rotor to the hub. The clamping force created when the nuts are torqued correctly keeps the wheel true, the rotor seated flat, and the tyre wearing nicely. Subaru’s design uses press-fit studs in the hub and separate nuts, which also makes roadside wheel changes quicker and keeps the brake rotor aligned during refits.

For servicing, the big ticket is correct torque, clean mating surfaces, and undamaged threads. Subaru service literature for SF models specifies a dry torque around 120 N·m (about 88 ft·lb), always check the vehicle placard or the workshop manual for the exact figure your car calls for. Nip the nuts up in a star pattern, finish with a torque wrench (not just a rattle gun), and re-check after 50–100 km—especially after a rotation or new tyres.

• Keep threads dry and clean—factory torque specs assume no lubricant.
• Inspect for damage: stretched or rusty studs, cross‑threading, spinning studs, or deformed nut seats all warrant replacement.
• Use the right seat style—this Forester uses 60° taper-seat nuts, mixing mag/flat seats will damage wheels.
• If one stud is bad, consider replacing the set on that corner to keep clamping even.

Replacing a dud stud is straightforward workshop fare: remove the caliper and rotor, press or drive the old stud out from the back, slip the correct-knurl replacement through, and draw it fully home using a stack of washers and a sacrificial nut—or a press if available. Make sure the stud head seats flush on the hub face. Refit brakes, mount the wheel, and torque the nuts accurately. If the stud spins in the hub or the knurl fit is loose, the hub needs attention before going any further.

Done right, the Forester’s studs and nuts will handle Aussie and Kiwi roads for years—quietly holding everything together while the cabin enjoys the view.

Popular questions

What torque should the wheel nuts be on a 1998 Subaru Forester?
Subaru service information for SF-series Foresters calls for about 120 N·m (88 ft·lb) on clean, dry threads. Always confirm against the owner’s manual or the tyre placard. After any wheel-off job, re‑torque after 50–100 km.

What thread size and seat type are the wheel nuts?
The 1998 Forester uses M12 x 1.25 studs with 60° tapered-seat (cone) nuts, typically a 19 mm hex. Don’t mix seat styles—using flat-seat or mag nuts on taper-seat wheels can chew out the wheel and reduce clamping.

Is it safe to drive with a broken wheel stud?
Not recommended. One missing stud reduces clamping and can let the wheel work loose, especially over corrugations or at motorway speeds. If more than one is missing or damaged, park it and sort the repair before driving.