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Parts for your 1998 Nissan Navara-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
1998 Nissan Navara (D22) Engine Mount — What It Does and When to Replace It
Technical sources confirm the 1998 Nissan Navara (D22) uses engine mounts. The Nissan D22 Factory Service Manual (Engine and Maintenance sections) specifies engine mounting inspection and tightening procedures, and Nissan parts catalogues (FAST/Microcat) list left and right engine mounting insulators plus a transmission mount for 1997–2004 D22 utes. Major aftermarket catalogues in AU/NZ also stock engine mounts for 1998 Navara variants (petrol KA24E and diesels like TD27/QD32), reinforcing that mounts are standard fitment on this model.
The engine mount on a 1998 Navara is a tough rubber (sometimes fluid-filled) insulator that holds the engine to the chassis while soaking up vibration and drivetrain movement. On the D22 there are typically two primary engine mounts (left and right) and a separate transmission mount supporting the gearbox. Together they keep the engine sitting at the correct height and angle under the bonnet, stop harsh buzzing in the cab, and prevent knock-through when you’re on and off the throttle or bouncing along corrugations.
As they age, mounts harden, sag or split. A tired mount shows up as extra vibration at idle in Drive, a clunk when selecting gears, or the engine visibly rocking when blipping the throttle. On diesel Navaras, you’ll often notice a droney rumble through the pedals or seat when a mount gives up.
For servicing, it pays to inspect the mounts every 20,000–40,000 km or during major services. Look for perished rubber, collapsed height compared to the other side, shiny metal-to-metal contact points, or leaked fluid if a mount is hydraulic. A pry bar can be gently used to check for excess movement, but go easy—no need to bruise the rubber.
Replacement is straightforward for a workshop and a doable DIY for the confident: safely support the engine with a jack and a timber block, undo the mount-to-engine and mount-to-crossmember fasteners, swap the mount, then lower and torque to the workshop spec. It’s smart to replace mounts in pairs (left and right) so the engine sits level and the new mount doesn’t have to fight an old, sagged one. Always snug fasteners with the engine settled on its weight, and re-check torque after a short shakedown drive.
Keeping mounts healthy protects exhaust flexes, hoses, and even the gearbox mount. For a 1998 Navara doing towing or off-road work, fresh mounts are cheap insurance for smoother running and fewer rattles in the ute.
- Common symptoms: harsh idle, gear-change thud, exhaust knocking, engine rock.
- Service tip: inspect at major services, replace in pairs, verify torque with the engine settled.
- Parts note: petrol and diesel mounts can differ—match to VIN/engine code.
Popular questions about 1998 Nissan Navara engine mounts
How long do engine mounts last on a 1998 Navara?
On a well-looked-after D22, mounts often last 150,000–250,000 km, but heavy towing, oil leaks on the rubbers, or lots of corrugations can shorten that. If the ute’s buzzing more than it used to or clunks into gear, it’s time to check them rather than waiting on a fixed kilometre interval.
Can worn engine mounts damage other parts?
Yes. Excess engine movement can stress the exhaust, split hoses, accelerate wear on the transmission mount, and make shifter linkages sloppy. It can also make the fan or intake pipework kiss nearby components over bumps. Replacing dodgy mounts can save chasing a bunch of annoying follow-on faults.
Should both engine mounts be replaced at once?
Ideally, yes. Replacing in pairs keeps engine height and angle correct and avoids loading a new mount against an old, sagged unit. If budget’s tight and only one is clearly failed, you can do one side—but expect to revisit the other side sooner rather than later.