Parts for your 1998 Mitsubishi Pajero-Drive belt tensioner

1998 Mitsubishi Pajero drive-belt tensioner — is it used on this model?

Short answer: a conventional spring-loaded accessory drive-belt tensioner isn’t used on the 1998 Mitsubishi Pajero. Factory setups for this year and platform (Gen 2/2.5 Pajero/Montero/Shogun) use manually adjusted belts and idler pulleys rather than an automatic drive-belt tensioner assembly. This applies across the common engines of the era, including the 2.8L 4M40 turbo-diesel and the 3.0L 6G72 and 3.5L 6G74 V6 petrols. This configuration is detailed in Mitsubishi’s workshop manuals (Pajero NH–NL/NK–NL series, Drive Belt – Inspection/Adjustment procedures) and the 4M40/6G7x engine manuals, which describe belt tension being set by alternator/power-steering pivots and A/C idler adjusters, not by a spring-loaded tensioner unit. Parts catalogues (Mitsubishi ASA/CAPS) and belt manufacturer data (Gates/Dayco catalogues) likewise list belts, idler pulleys and adjuster hardware, but no automatic accessory-belt tensioner for these engines.

Why didn’t Mitsubishi fit a drive-belt tensioner here? The 1990s Pajero platform was designed for durability and outback-friendly servicing. Separate belts for alternator/water pump, power steering, and A/C with simple adjuster bolts make roadside or shed maintenance straightforward with basic tools under the bonnet. It also reduces the number of moving parts compared with a spring-loaded tensioner assembly.

What owners will service instead are the belts and idler/guide pulleys. As part of regular servicing, it’s worth checking for glazing, cracking, fraying, and any chirps or squeals on cold starts or when accessories load up. Belt tension is set by loosening the component’s pivot and lock bolts, turning the adjuster to achieve correct deflection, then re-tightening to the specified torque. The factory manuals specify the method and targets, if specs aren’t on hand, avoid over-tensioning, which can stress bearings, or under-tensioning, which leads to slip and noise. After fitting new belts, it’s sensible to re-check tension after a short run-in.

• Listen for squeal (slip) or a dry, growly bearing noise from idlers.
• Spin idler pulleys by hand, any roughness or wobble means replacement.
• If the vehicle has been modified with a serpentine conversion, verify whether an aftermarket tensioner has been added.

Important distinction: the timing belt on V6 engines does use a separate hydraulic/mechanical timing-belt tensioner, but that’s unrelated to the accessory drive belts discussed here.

Popular questions

Does a 1998 Mitsubishi Pajero have a drive-belt tensioner?
From factory, no. The accessory belts are tensioned manually via alternator and power-steering adjusters and an A/C idler. The only tensioner you’ll see mentioned in manuals for the V6 is for the timing belt, which is a different system altogether.

How do you adjust the accessory belts on a 1998 Pajero?
Under the bonnet, loosen the relevant component’s pivot and lock bolts, use the adjuster bolt to set belt deflection, then tighten to spec. Run the engine, re-check alignment and listen for slip. New belts usually need a quick re-check after a few kilometres.

What noises point to belt or idler issues?
A sharp squeal on start-up or when turning the wheel often means a loose or glazed belt. A rhythmic chirp can be misalignment. A rough, grinding noise that doesn’t change with light misting of water on the ribs usually points to a failing idler or accessory bearing.