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Parts for your 1997 Nissan Navara-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
1997 Nissan Navara engine-mount
Engine mounts are absolutely fitted to the 1997 Nissan Navara (D22). Technical references that spell this out include the Nissan D22/Navara Factory Service Manual (Engine Mechanical section: Engine Mounting/Insulators) and the Nissan FAST electronic parts catalogue for D22, which lists left and right “insulator–engine mounting” assemblies for petrol and diesel variants. Many aftermarket catalogues for the D22/Navara/Frontier of the same era also specify front engine mounts by engine code (e.g., TD27, QD32, KA24), confirming their use.
The engine mount’s job on a ’97 Navara is to secure the engine to the chassis while isolating vibration and absorbing torque movement. In day‑to‑day driving that means a smoother idle, fewer rattles through the cab, and less stress on exhausts, hoses and wiring. On 4x4 and diesel models that cop a bit of low‑rev grunt, healthy mounts also keep driveline angles happier under load.
As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to cast an eye over the mounts every 20,000–30,000 km or when chasing vibrations. Look for perished or cracked rubber, collapsed height, torn bonding, shiny witness marks from metal‑to‑metal contact, or oil contamination (leaks can soften rubber). Excessive engine rock on start-up or shut-down, a thud on take‑off, or a buzz felt through the steering at idle are classic tells.
- Replace mounts in pairs (left and right) where practical to keep balance and ride quality consistent.
- Support the engine with a jack and wood block on the sump rail or use an engine support bar—never lift on thin alloy or the sump pan itself.
- Loosen, align, then torque fasteners with the weight settled, recheck torque after a short shakedown drive.
- Inspect the transmission mount and crossmember at the same time, a tired trans mount can mimic engine mount symptoms.
- Choose quality OEM or reputable aftermarket mounts suited to your engine code, diesel mounts often differ from petrol spec.
Owners who tow, tour corrugations, or work the ute hard might shorten inspection intervals. After fitment, watch for improved idle feel and cleaner gear changes, if vibrations persist, check for misaligned exhaust brackets or worn driveline bushes. A fresh set of mounts can make an old D22 feel far less tractor‑ish at the lights and kinder on everything bolted to the block.
How can someone tell the engine mounts on a 1997 Navara are failing?
Common signs are increased vibration at idle, a clunk when shifting from Park to Drive or on take‑off, visible sag or cracking in the rubber, and the engine sitting lower or tilting. Oil‑soaked mounts from nearby leaks also age quickly and lose damping.
Should engine mounts be replaced in pairs on the ’97 Navara?
Ideally, yes. Replacing both front mounts keeps engine height and damping even, restoring smoothness and preventing the newer mount from overworking. It’s also efficient since the same access is used for both sides.
Are diesel and petrol mounts the same on the 1997 Navara?
Often they’re different. Diesel engines like the TD27 or QD32 can use mounts tuned for heavier mass and torsional vibration compared with KA24 petrol units. Always match by VIN/engine code to get the correct insulator set.