Parts for your 1997 Mitsubishi Pajero-Drive belt tensioner

1997 Mitsubishi Pajero drive-belt tensioner: is there one, and what should owners know?

For the 1997 Mitsubishi Pajero, a separate, spring-loaded serpentine drive-belt tensioner assembly is generally not used. Factory technical information and mainstream catalogues back this up: the Mitsubishi Workshop Manual for Gen 2 Pajero (1996–1999), plus Gregory’s and Haynes manuals, show the accessory drive using individual V-belts (or multi-rib belts per system) that are tensioned by moving the alternator and power-steering pump on their brackets and by a screw-adjusted idler for the air-conditioning belt. Gates and Dayco parts catalogues list belts and idler pulleys for these models but do not list an automatic accessory-belt tensioner assembly for typical 1997 Pajero engines (such as the 4M40 2.8TD and many 6G7x V6 variants).

Why’s that the case? It comes down to the Gen 2 Pajero’s era and design brief. Rather than one long serpentine belt with an automatic tensioner, these vehicles commonly run two or three shorter belts. Tension is set manually by loosening pivot bolts and using the adjuster bolts on the alternator or power-steering pump, and by winding the A/C idler’s adjuster screw. It’s a robust, field-serviceable setup that suits touring and off-road use, and it keeps parts costs down. Just don’t mix it up with the timing belt tensioner on V6 petrol engines—that’s a separate system inside the timing covers and unrelated to the accessory belts under the bonnet.

Owners looking up a “drive-belt tensioner” for a 1997 Pajero will often find the listing doesn’t apply to their vehicle because there’s no standalone automatic tensioner to replace. Instead, the servicing focus is on belt condition and correct manual adjustment:

• Inspect belts for cracks, fraying, glazing, or contamination. Replace if worn or noisy.
• Set belt tension using the factory procedure and specs in the workshop manual, over-tight belts can chew bearings, while under-tight belts slip and squeal.
• After fitting new belts, recheck and re-tension after a short run-in period as they bed in.
• Spin idler and accessory pulleys by hand, any roughness or wobble means the bearing’s on the way out.

Note: There were multiple engines and regional specs in 1997. Most Gen 2 Pajeros match the manual-tension arrangement described above, but it’s smart to confirm by VIN or engine code against a workshop manual or reputable parts catalogue if the vehicle’s history is unknown.

Popular questions about 1997 Mitsubishi Pajero drive-belt tensioner

Does a 1997 Pajero have a drive-belt tensioner I can replace?
Most don’t have a separate automatic tensioner. Belt tension is set manually via the alternator and power-steering adjusters and an A/C idler adjuster. If a listing shows a “tensioner” for your 1997, double-check the engine code—chances are it’s referring to an idler pulley or it’s for a different generation.

How do you tension the belts on a 1997 Pajero?
Loosen the relevant component’s pivot and lock bolts, turn the adjuster (or A/C idler screw) to set tension to spec, then tighten everything back up. Check deflection or tension per the workshop manual. Recheck after a few hundred kilometres as new belts can settle.

What if my belt squeals even after adjustment?
Squeal can come from under-tension, contaminated belt faces, misaligned pulleys, or a failing bearing. Clean the pulleys, recheck alignment, set tension correctly, and spin-test idlers and accessories. Replace any noisy bearings and any glazed or cracked belt.