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Parts for your 1997 Mitsubishi Pajero-Centre bearing
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1997 Mitsubishi Pajero centre-bearing
For the 1997 Mitsubishi Pajero (Gen 2, NK/NL series), a centre-bearing is fitted on long‑wheelbase (5‑door) models with a two‑piece rear propeller shaft, and not fitted on short‑wheelbase (3‑door) models which use a single‑piece shaft. This is supported by the Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero Workshop Manual (1991–1999, Group 22A: Propeller Shaft), the Mitsubishi ASA/EPC parts catalogue for NK/NL series, and Australian driveline catalogues (e.g., Hardy Spicer) that list a centre support bearing for LWB variants only.
Why the SWB doesn’t use one: the shorter wheelbase allows a single‑piece rear prop shaft, so there’s no need for a mid‑span support. The LWB’s longer shaft benefits from a centre-bearing to control whip, vibration, and alignment under load and suspension travel.
For LWB owners where a centre-bearing is fitted, here’s what it does and how to look after it. The centre-bearing’s job is to support the two‑piece rear prop shaft right in the middle, keeping it running true as the suspension moves and torque loads change. It reduces vibration, protects the universal joints, and helps the Pajero feel smooth at highway speeds or when towing the boat or caravan. When the rubber support or bearing wears, drivers will often notice a low‑speed shudder on take‑off, a droning or humming that rises with road speed, or a thump as the driveline loads and unloads.
Servicing and replacement guidance is pretty straightforward. The bearing is not a high‑frequency service item, but it should be inspected whenever the vehicle is on a hoist for driveline or diff work, or at major services (around every 40,000–60,000 km). Look for cracked or perished rubber in the support, play in the bearing, or contact marks from the shaft moving off‑centre. If there’s obvious sagging or free play, replacement is the sensible move—leaving it too long can take out universals and seals, which gets pricey.
Good practice when replacing the centre-bearing on a Pajero includes:
- Marking prop shaft phasing before removal to keep balance and minimise vibration.
- Checking and, if needed, replacing nearby universals while the shaft is out.
- Torquing mounts to spec and ensuring the bearing bracket sits square to avoid pre‑loading.
- After refit, road‑testing across 40–100 km/h to confirm vibration is gone.
For vehicles that work hard—outback touring, beach launches, or regular towing—more frequent checks are wise. A tidy centre-bearing keeps the big Mitsi feeling tight and saves tyres, universals, and diff mounts from extra grief.
- How can an owner tell if their 1997 Pajero actually has a centre-bearing?
Five‑door long‑wheelbase models have a two‑piece rear prop shaft with a support bracket roughly mid‑way along the chassis. Three‑door short‑wheelbase models have a single straight shaft to the rear diff with no mid support. - What are the classic signs the centre-bearing is on the way out?
Shudder on take‑off, a droning or humming that scales with road speed (not engine revs), a thump when loading and unloading the driveline, and visible sag or cracked rubber in the support. - Is it safe to keep driving with a noisy centre-bearing?
It’ll usually get the driver home, but it can accelerate wear in universals and mounts. Best to book it in soon—if it fails badly, it can cause serious vibration and collateral damage.