Parts for your 1997 Mitsubishi Pajero-Bump stops

1997 Mitsubishi Pajero bump-stops: fitted from factory and worth keeping in good nick

Based on technical references including the Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero 1991–1999 Workshop Manual (V20/NJ–NL series, Suspension section) and the Mitsubishi ASA electronic parts catalogue, the 1997 Mitsubishi Pajero is factory-fitted with bump-stops at both ends. The front torsion-bar suspension uses upper arm bump-stops (also used as a reference for ride-height/bump-stop clearance), and the coil-sprung rear axle has chassis-mounted bump-stops that limit compression. So yes—bump-stops are relevant and used on this model.

On a 1997 Pajero, bump-stops act as the final cushion when the suspension compresses hard, stopping metal-to-metal contact. They protect shocks, control arms, chassis mounts and CVs, help the vehicle keep its line over big hits, and prevent nasty bottoming-out noises. In rough Aussie or Kiwi conditions—corrugations, washouts, ruts—good bump-stops make the difference between a controlled thud and a bone-jarring slam.

As part of regular servicing, it’s wise to inspect them every 10,000–20,000 kilometres or when chasing clunks. Look for cracked or perished rubber, missing chunks, oil swelling, or flattened/over-compressed stops. On the front, also check the bump-stop clearance when setting ride height via the torsion bars—if the arms sit too close to (or on) the stops, the ride will be harsh and steering will feel skittish. After fitting a lift, long-travel shocks or different tyres, recheck bump-stop length and clearances to protect the shocks and CVs at full compression.

Replacement is straightforward: support the Pajero safely, remove the wheel, undo the retaining bolt or stud, clean the seat, and fit the new stop. Torque to the workshop manual spec and avoid petroleum-based greases on rubber, a silicone-safe rubber grease sparingly on the seat can help future removal. OE-style rubber keeps the factory feel, while polyurethane or microcellular foam options resist oil and heat and can add a slightly firmer, more progressive hit—handy for loaded touring. If the 4WD sees beach runs or muddy bush tracks, give the stops a rinse, caked mud accelerates cracking.

• Telltales they’re due: sharp bottoming, new clunks over speed bumps, visibly torn or missing stops, or uneven front ride height/bump-stop clearance.
• When modifying: match bump-stop height to shock stroke and tyre size to avoid tyre-to-guard or shock bottoming.

Popular questions about 1997 Mitsubishi Pajero bump-stops

Do 1997 Pajeros have front and rear bump-stops?
Yes. The front torsion-bar setup uses upper-arm bump-stops, and the rear coil-sprung axle has chassis-mounted stops. The factory workshop manual even specifies setting front ride height by checking the gap to the front bump-stops.

How often should bump-stops be replaced?
There’s no strict interval. Inspect them at each service or every 10,000–20,000 km. Replace if they’re cracked, oil-swollen, missing chunks, or if the vehicle bottoms out harshly. After suspension lifts or new shocks, reassess bump-stop lengths and clearances.

What bump-stops fit my 1997 Pajero?
Fitment depends on body style and suspension spec (SWB/LWB, petrol/diesel). Front stops mount to the upper control arm area, rears mount on the chassis above the axle. Use the VIN to confirm OE-equivalent parts, or choose quality aftermarket rubber, polyurethane, or foam bump-stops matched to your shock travel and tyre size.