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Parts for your 1997 Daihatsu Terios-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
1997 Daihatsu Terios Engine Mount
Yes, the 1997 Daihatsu Terios absolutely uses engine mounts. This is confirmed by the Daihatsu Terios J100 Series Workshop Manual (Engine Mechanical – Engine Mounting), the Daihatsu Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC) for J100G, and multiple aftermarket catalogues that list dedicated engine mounting insulators and torque rod mounts for the 1.3L HC‑EJ Terios. So an engine-mount is very much relevant to this model.
On the 1997 Terios, engine mounts do two key jobs: they hold the engine in the right spot and they tame vibration so the cabin doesn’t buzz like a hive. Rubber or hydraulic insulators sit between the engine brackets and the body/subframe, keeping the driveline aligned with the transmission and driveshafts while soaking up movement under throttle, braking, or on rough Kiwi and Aussie roads. A torque rod (sometimes called a dogbone) helps limit engine rocking so it doesn’t stress exhaust joints, hoses, and wiring.
As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to inspect the mounts every 20,000–30,000 km or at each major service. Oil contamination, heat, and age can perished the rubber, which leads to more engine movement and vibration. Hydraulic mounts can seep fluid when they fail. If the Terios starts to thump on take-off, shudder at idle in Drive, or clunk on gear changes, the mounts are prime suspects.
- Common symptoms: rough idle vibration, clunks on acceleration or lift-off, excessive engine rock, exhaust flex cracking, or visible sag/split rubber.
- What to check: cracked rubber, collapsed height, torn torque rod bushes, loose/bent brackets, or fluid leaks from hydraulic mounts.
Replacement is straightforward for a trained tech: safely support the engine with a jack and wood under the sump, change one mount at a time, align studs carefully, and use new hardware where specified. It’s wise to replace mounts as a set if they’re aged together, then recheck fastener torque after a few hundred kilometres. Choose quality OEM or reputable aftermarket rubber to keep NVH down. After fitting, confirm there’s clearance around the exhaust, steering shaft, and radiator hoses, and that the transmission mount is in good nick too. Treated well, fresh mounts make a tired Terios feel tight and quiet again—sweet as under the bonnet and much nicer on the daily run.
Technical sources consulted: Daihatsu Terios J100 Series Workshop Manual (Engine Mechanical – Engine Mounting), Daihatsu EPC for J100G, aftermarket parts catalogues from recognised mount manufacturers listing engine mounting insulators and torque rods for 1997 Terios.
Popular questions
How many engine mounts are on a 1997 Daihatsu Terios?
The J100-series Terios typically uses three engine mounts plus a separate transmission mount. Depending on market and build, there may be a torque rod/dogbone that’s counted as part of the engine mounting system. A quick visual under the bonnet and along the subframe will confirm the exact arrangement on a given vehicle.
Is it safe to drive with a worn engine mount?
Usually, it’s driveable for short distances, but it’s not ideal. A failed mount can increase vibration, cause clunks, stress the exhaust flex and hoses, and accelerate wear on the remaining mounts. If there’s heavy knocking, visible engine lift when blipping the throttle, or the mount has clearly collapsed, it should be sorted promptly.
When should the engine mounts be replaced?
There isn’t a fixed kilometre interval, condition is the guide. Inspect at every major service and replace when the rubber is perished, sagged, split, leaking (hydraulic type), or when driveline movement and NVH get noticeable. Many owners see replacement anywhere from 120,000–200,000 km depending on use and heat exposure.