Parts for your 1996 Mitsubishi Pajero-Bump stops

1996 Mitsubishi Pajero bump-stops

They’re definitely used on this model. Technical references including the Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero Factory Service Manual (1991–1999 V2/V4 platform, Front and Rear Suspension sections), the Mitsubishi ASA parts catalogue (listing front and rear bump stoppers/rebound rubbers), and common aftermarket fitment guides for Gen 2 Pajero confirm the 1996 Pajero is factory-fitted with bump-stops front and rear.

On a ’96 Pajero, bump-stops act like the soft final cushion for the suspension. When the control arm or axle reaches the end of its travel, the bump-stop (a rubber or polyurethane block) takes the hit instead of your shocks, coils, arms or diff housing. That saves you from harsh bottoming-out, protects the gear underneath, and adds a progressive “ramp-up” in spring rate so it stays composed on corrugations and off-road hits.

Up front (double-wishbone with torsion bars), the bump-stop is mounted to the chassis rail and contacts the upper control arm at full compression. Down the back (live axle with coils), the bump-stop sits on the chassis above the axle tube. Both pairs are simple, bolt-on parts that quietly cop a beating over time.

Servicing advice is pretty straightforward:

• Inspect at every service or before big trips. Look for cracks, perishing, chunks missing, or hard, shiny surfaces that have gone brittle.
• Check mounting studs and brackets for rust or elongation. A missing or loose bump-stop can let the suspension smash metal-to-metal.
• If the Pajero regularly tows, carries drawers and camping gear, or has longer-travel shocks, consider fresh OEM or quality polyurethane replacements. Lifted rigs (around 40–50 mm and up) may need extended bump-stops to protect CVs, coils, and shocks at full compression.
• Replace in pairs per axle. Support the suspension safely, remove the old stopper, clean the seat, and torque to the workshop manual spec.

Common signs it’s time: a clunk when hitting speed humps, evidence of bottoming-out marks on the arms or axle, uneven tyre wear from frequent hard compression, and the rubbers looking flattened or cracked. They’re cheap insurance—fresh bump-stops keep the Pajero riding nicer on corrugations, help the shocks live longer, and guard against coil bind and control arm damage when you’re loaded or off the beaten track.

FAQs

Where are the bump-stops on a 1996 Pajero?
Up front they’re on the chassis rails and contact the upper control arms at full compression. At the rear they’re mounted to the chassis above the live axle, meeting the axle tube under big hits.

How often should bump-stops be replaced?
There’s no fixed interval—inspect every service. Replace if they’re cracked, oil-soaked, missing, hardened, or if you’re bottoming out. Many last years, but heavy touring, corrugations, or lifts accelerate wear.

Do I need extended bump-stops after a suspension lift?
If you’ve fitted longer-travel shocks or lifted the Pajero around 40–50 mm or more, extended bump-stops are a smart move to prevent shock bottoming, coil bind, and CV or arm stress at full compression.