Parts for your 1993 Mitsubishi Pajero-Wheel studs nuts

1993 Mitsubishi Pajero Wheel Studs & Nuts

Based on the Mitsubishi Pajero V20 Series factory workshop manual (1991–1999), the Mitsubishi ASA electronic parts catalogue diagrams for the front and rear hubs, and widely used aftermarket repair guides (e.g., Haynes for Pajero/Montero/Shogun), the 1993 Mitsubishi Pajero is fitted with pressed-in wheel studs and separate wheel nuts (commonly a 6-stud hub pattern). It does not use wheel bolts. Those sources depict the studs as a serviceable hub component and specify wheel nut torques and patterns, confirming the setup.

On a ’93 Pajero, wheel studs and nuts do the heavy lifting of clamping the wheel firmly to the hub or axle flange. That clamping force is what keeps the wheel centred, stops vibration, and copes with the loads from braking, cornering, towing, and off-road work. Because they’re safety-critical, keeping them in good nick is part of sensible servicing.

What’s their job day to day? The studs are splined and pressed into the hub, the nuts provide the clamping when torqued in a star pattern. Most V20s run tapered-seat nuts matched to the factory wheels. The workshop literature specifies tightening the nuts to the factory torque (typically around the 100–120 N·m mark depending on wheel type) and rechecking after any wheel-off work.

Good maintenance habits for Pajero wheel studs and nuts include:

• Inspect threads for galling, stretch, rust pitting, or cross-threading, replace if any damage is present.
• Use the correct thread pitch and seat style for the wheel (commonly M12 x 1.5 with a 60° taper on V20 models, confirm against VIN/parts data).
• Tighten with a calibrated torque wrench on clean, dry threads unless Mitsubishi specifies otherwise. Avoid lubricating the threads, as it alters clamping force.
• Torque in a star pattern, then recheck after 50–100 km, especially after off-road or towing.
• After beach or creek crossings, rinse the wheels and hubs with fresh water to limit corrosion.

When a stud is bent, broken, spinning in the hub, or the nut won’t run smoothly by hand, it’s time for replacement. The factory approach is to remove the brake rotor/drum and press the stud out/in square to the flange, drawing a new stud into place with a nut can damage the splines or under-seat area. Always replace damaged nuts and any stud that’s suspect—cheap insurance for a vehicle that often sees corrugations and heavy loads.

Popular questions

What’s the correct wheel nut torque for a 1993 Pajero?
Factory data varies by wheel type, but it typically sits around 100–120 N·m. Always refer to the V20 workshop manual or an OEM service database for the exact figure for the vehicle’s wheels, tighten in a star pattern, and recheck torque after a short drive.

What thread and seat do the Pajero’s wheel nuts use?
Most 1993 V20 Pajeros use M12 x 1.5 studs with a 60° tapered-seat nut. Because wheels and hubs get swapped on older 4x4s, confirm by VIN in the Mitsubishi parts catalogue or by checking an existing nut and stud before ordering.

Can wheel studs be replaced without removing the hub?
Sometimes one can be sneaked out by rotating the flange for clearance, but best practice from workshop procedures is to remove the rotor/drum as needed and press the new stud in square. That avoids damaging the stud splines or the flange and ensures proper clamping.