Parts for your 1993 Mitsubishi Pajero-Engine mount

1993 Mitsubishi Pajero engine mount — what it does and when to replace it

Engine mounts are absolutely fitted to the 1993 Mitsubishi Pajero. This isn’t guesswork: Mitsubishi’s Pajero Workshop Manual for the V20 series (1991–1999) includes a dedicated “Engine Mounting” section (Group 11) detailing left- and right-hand mounting insulators, brackets and procedures for inspection and replacement. Likewise, Mitsubishi’s ASA/CAPS electronic parts catalogue lists LH/RH engine mounting insulators across common 1993 variants (e.g., V23/V24/V26 chassis with 6G72 petrol and 4D56/4M40 diesels). Aftermarket catalogues used in AU/NZ parts counters also carry direct-fit engine mounts for this model. So yes—engine mounts are relevant, used, and a normal wear item on a ’93 Pajero.

On this big, body-on-frame 4x4, the engine mounts do two key jobs: they hold the engine at the correct height and angle, and they isolate vibration so the cabin doesn’t buzz like a beehive. The rubber (or hydraulic) insulators sit between the engine brackets and the chassis, controlling movement under throttle, over corrugations, and when towing or climbing. When the rubber perishes, collapses or tears, owners will notice extra vibration at idle, a harsh shudder on take-off, or even a clunk when shifting from Reverse to Drive. Diesels (4D56/4M40) can be tougher on mounts than the 6G72 petrol due to higher low-rpm vibration.

• Common signs: excessive vibration at idle, clunking on gear changes, fan shroud contact, tilted engine, or exhaust hitting the body.
• Service tip: inspect mounts at each major service, looking for cracks, separated rubber, oil swelling, or sagging.
• Replacement: support the engine with a jack and timber under the sump, swap one side at a time, and align dowels properly.
• Hardware: use new nuts/bolts where specified and torque to the factory figures in the workshop manual.
• Quality: OE-style rubber mounts suit most touring, heavy-duty options can help for towing or off-road abuse.
• Good practice: replace mounts in pairs to keep engine height and driveline angles even.

There’s no fixed interval—condition decides. Vehicles that see beach work, corrugations or lots of towing tend to chew through mounts faster. If the steering wheel tingles at idle, the gear lever sits on a lean, or there’s a knock on throttle transitions, it’s time to check the mounts. Sticking with mounts that match the engine variant (petrol vs diesel) and following the factory tightening sequence keeps the Pajero smooth and happy on Kiwi backroads and Aussie outback tracks alike.

Popular questions about 1993 Mitsubishi Pajero engine mounts

How many engine mounts does a 1993 Pajero have?
Most 1993 Pajeros use two primary engine mounts (left and right on the block) plus a separate transmission/transfer case mount that supports the rear of the driveline. The exact arrangement can vary slightly by engine and gearbox, but two engine insulators up front is the norm.

What are the classic symptoms of worn engine mounts on a ’93 Pajero?
Expect more vibration at idle, a clunk when selecting Drive or Reverse, and a shudder on take-off. You might also spot the engine sitting low on one side, or the fan/shroud and exhaust touching under load. Any of these are a prompt to inspect and replace.

Do diesel Pajeros wear engine mounts faster than petrol models?
Often, yes. The 4D56 and 4M40 diesels produce more low-rpm vibration, especially with big tyres, towing, or heavy off-road use. Quality OE-spec mounts and timely replacement keep the cabin calm and protect hoses, exhaust joints and driveline angles.