Parts for your 1993 Mitsubishi Pajero-Control arms

1993 Mitsubishi Pajero control-arms: what they do and when to replace them

Control-arms are absolutely relevant to the 1993 Mitsubishi Pajero. Technical sources, including the Mitsubishi Pajero NH–NJ factory service manual (chassis sections for Front Suspension and Rear Axle/Suspension) and Mitsubishi’s ASA electronic parts catalogue, specify upper and lower front control-arms (double wishbone with torsion bars) and trailing control-arms in the coil-sprung live rear axle with a Panhard rod on most 1993 variants. Several workshop manuals for the NH–NJ series corroborate this layout.

On this model, the front upper and lower control-arms locate the hub and hold the alignment steady while the torsion bar carries the load. They pivot on rubber bushes and terminate at ball joints that steer and articulate the wheel. Out back, the trailing control-arms locate the axle fore–aft, keeping it centred and stable through bumps and towing loads. Together, these arms control camber, caster and toe under braking, cornering and off-road articulation, which is why they’re crucial for tyre life and straight-line stability.

Common wear points are the bushes and ball joints. Once they flog out, the Pajero can wander on the highway, clunk over corrugations and scrub tyres. A tidy set of arms makes a big difference to ride quality and road-holding, especially with bullbars, long-distance touring gear or a lift.

When servicing or replacing control-arms on a 1993 Pajero, it pays to:

• Inspect bushes for cracking, splitting or oil soak, check ball joints for play and split boots.
• Torque pivot bolts at normal ride height so bushes aren’t preloaded.
• Replace in pairs across an axle where practical, and fit new hardware and cotter pins.
• Book a proper wheel alignment after front-end work, caster/camber are sensitive on the double wishbone setup.
• Choose bush material to suit use: quality OEM rubber for comfort and NVH, polyurethane for sharper response at the cost of a firmer ride.

Owners running bigger tyres or doing regular gravel and beach work should shorten inspection intervals to every 10,000–15,000 kilometres. Any clunks, steering shimmy, uneven tyre wear or braking pull are cues to check the arms promptly. With good control-arms and fresh alignment, an NH–NJ Pajero steers predictably, brakes straight and rides better on and off the blacktop.

FAQs

How can someone tell if the 1993 Pajero’s control-arm bushes or ball joints are worn?

Look for steering play, a knock over speed humps, feathered or rapidly wearing tyres and vague tracking. In the driveway, a pry bar can reveal excess bush movement, and a wobble at 12 and 6 o’clock on the wheel may hint at a loose ball joint. Any torn dust boots or oil-soaked bushes mean it’s time for attention.

Does the Pajero need a wheel alignment after control-arm work?

Yes. On the NH–NJ double wishbone front end, caster and camber are set via the arm pivots and shims. Any change to arms, bushes or ball joints can shift alignment. A post-repair alignment protects tyre wear and restores straight-line stability.

Are polyurethane bushes a good idea for a touring or 4x4 1993 Pajero?

Poly bushes can sharpen steering and last well under heat and oil, but they transmit more vibration. For mixed touring and off-road use, many owners prefer quality rubber for comfort and articulation. Poly can be great for heavy loads or firm handling, provided regular lubrication and inspection are part of the routine.