Parts for your 1991 Mitsubishi Pajero-Suspension bushes

1991 Mitsubishi Pajero suspension bushes – what they do and when to replace them

Suspension bushes are absolutely used on the 1991 Mitsubishi Pajero. Technical sources including the Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero 1991–1996 Workshop Manual, the Mitsubishi ASA electronic parts catalogue, the Haynes Pajero manual (’83–’97), and major aftermarket catalogues (e.g., SuperPro, Whiteline) list front control arm bushes, stabiliser (sway) bar D‑bushes and link bushes, rear trailing arm bushes, Panhard rod bushes, and shock eye bushes for this model. That confirms they’re an integral part of the Pajero’s suspension layout.

On this generation Pajero, the front uses independent double wishbones with torsion bars, so each arm pivots on rubber bushes to control geometry while soaking up vibration. The rear runs a live axle on multi‑link coils with a Panhard rod, again relying on bushes to locate the axle without harshness. Those little cylinders of rubber (or polyurethane) isolate noise, prevent metal‑to‑metal contact, and keep alignment stable over corrugations, towing, and off‑road work.

As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to inspect bushes every 10,000–15,000 km or at each warrant/rego check, and more often if the vehicle sees deep water, mud, or outback touring. Look for cracks, tearing, squashed or “ovalled” holes, perished rubber, and excessive movement when levered with a pry bar. Common symptoms of worn bushes include:

• Clunks over bumps, steering shimmy, or a wandering feel on the highway
• Uneven or rapid tyre wear, vague turn‑in, or poor braking stability
• Visible cracking or displacement of the bush sleeves

When replacement’s due, choose bush material to suit how the Pajero’s used. Quality rubber keeps cabin NVH low and rides nicely for touring. Polyurethane offers sharper response and longevity, handy for heavy loads or frequent gravel, but can add a touch more vibration. Many owners mix: rubber for control arms and trailing arms, poly for sway bar D‑bushes.

Fitment tips matter. Press bushes squarely with the correct sleeves, match any orientation marks, and never tighten suspension bolts with the wheels hanging. Final‑torque at normal ride height so the bush isn’t pre‑loaded. After control arm or rear link work, book a wheel alignment. Avoid petroleum‑based sprays on rubber, if lubrication is required during assembly, use a silicone‑based or the manufacturer‑supplied grease (especially for poly). With decent parts and proper torqueing per the workshop manual, most bushes will go 100,000–200,000 km—even in Aussie and Kiwi conditions.

Popular questions about 1991 Mitsubishi Pajero suspension bushes

Do all 1991 Pajeros have the same bushes?

There are minor differences by body style and trim, but all 1991 Pajeros use front control arm bushes, sway bar bushes, and rear link/Panhard bushes. Diesel vs petrol or short vs long wheelbase can change part numbers, so check by VIN or build month before ordering.

How can someone quickly check if their bushes are worn?

With the vehicle safely on the ground, have a helper rock the steering while watching the front control arm bushes for excess movement. On a hoist, lever each arm and link, any clunk or visible shift suggests wear. Tyre feathering and a wheel that won’t hold alignment are strong clues too.

Rubber or polyurethane—what’s better for a touring Pajero?

For general road use and long trips, quality rubber keeps things quiet and compliant. If the Pajero tows, carries heavy camping gear, or sees rough tracks often, polyurethane in sway bars and selected locations can sharpen handling and last longer, while keeping rubber in key arms to manage NVH.