Parts for your 1991 Mitsubishi Pajero-Driveshafts

1991 Mitsubishi Pajero Driveshafts

Driveshafts are absolutely relevant and fitted to the 1991 Mitsubishi Pajero. Technical references that confirm this include the Mitsubishi Pajero (1991 NA–NG series) Workshop Manual in the Driveline/Propeller Shaft and Front Axle sections, the Mitsubishi ASA/CAPS parts catalogue for the model year (listing front and rear propeller shaft assemblies and CV half‑shafts), and widely used aftermarket manuals covering 1983–1996 Pajero/Montero which detail removal and service of propeller shafts, universal joints and CV joints. That means every 1991 Pajero runs a rear propeller shaft, a front propeller shaft, and front CV half‑shafts as part of its selectable 4WD system.

The Pajero’s driveshafts do the hard yakka of sending torque from the gearbox and transfer case to the front and rear diffs, then out to the wheels. The rear prop shaft and the front prop shaft handle the distance between the transfer case and each differential, with universal joints and a slip joint allowing for angle and length changes as the suspension moves. Up front, independent front suspension models use CV half‑shafts to deliver smooth power through steering angles. Whether it’s Super Select or Easy Select 4WD, the shafts are always there, ready for 2H commuting or a weekend bash down a rutted fire trail.

As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to eyeball the whole driveline. Look for torn CV boots, flung grease, rusty caps, or fresh witness marks near U‑joints. Feel for play at each U‑joint and the slip yoke, any knock or notchiness is a sign to replace. Vibes under load around 60–100 km/h, a clunk when taking off, or a rhythmic shudder on overrun usually point to worn joints, poor phasing, or a balance issue. Some long‑wheelbase Pajeros use a two‑piece rear shaft with a centre bearing—listen for rumbling there too.

If your U‑joints and slip joints have grease nipples, re‑grease every 10,000–15,000 kilometres (or after creek crossings and beach runs). Keep sand and grit out of the nipples and wipe them clean before and after. For sealed-for-life joints, inspection is the play—replace at the first sign of wear.

When replacing a driveshaft or joints, mark the flanges so it goes back in the same orientation, keep the yokes correctly phased, and torque the flange bolts to the workshop manual spec with a dab of thread locker. After the first run, recheck the bolts. If you’ve done a suspension lift and picked up new vibrations, consider driveline angles and balancing—small shims or a pro balance can save the day. Always work safely: chock the wheels, support the truck on stands, and never rely on a jack on its own.

Popular questions about 1991 Mitsubishi Pajero driveshafts

How can someone tell if their Pajero’s driveshafts or CVs are on the way out?

Common giveaways include vibration under acceleration or at highway speeds, a clunk when selecting drive or taking off, and a rhythmic shudder on lift‑off. Up front, a clicking noise on full lock usually means a CV joint or boot issue. Any torn boot or signs of flung grease should be sorted quickly to avoid joint damage.

Is it safe to keep driving with a noisy U‑joint or CV?

Best not. A worn U‑joint or CV can fail suddenly, which can leave the vehicle stranded or cause collateral damage. Short, gentle trips to a workshop might be OK, but avoid heavy loads, high speeds, and off‑road use until it’s repaired or replaced.

How often should the driveshafts be greased or checked?

If the Pajero’s joints are greaseable, aim for every 10,000–15,000 km, and always after deep water or beach work. Many replacement joints are sealed, in that case, inspect at every service for play, noise, or leaks, and replace as needed.