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Parts for your 1990 Suzuki Jimny-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
1990 Suzuki Jimny Engine Mounts
Engine mounts are absolutely used on the 1990 Suzuki Jimny. Technical sources that document them include Suzuki’s factory service literature for the JA11 (F6A) and SJ413 models, which contains an engine mounting removal/installation procedure, as well as the official Suzuki SJ410/SJ413 parts catalogue showing the left and right engine mounting insulators and brackets (with a separate transmission mount). Independent manuals such as the Haynes Suzuki SJ & Samurai guide also outline condition checks and replacement of engine mounts. Together, these confirm the 1990 Jimny uses conventional rubber isolator engine mounts.
On a 1990 Jimny, the engine mounts do a few critical jobs: they hold the engine in the correct position, isolate vibration so the cabin doesn’t buzz like a beehive, and manage torque reaction when the driver gives it a handful up a hill or over ruts. In a short-wheelbase 4x4 that sees corrugations and low-range work, the mounts also help protect the exhaust, radiator fan clearance and shifter linkages by keeping the engine from twisting or sagging.
There isn’t a strict replacement interval, it’s a condition-based item. After three-plus decades, many originals are tired. Look for these clues:
- More vibration at idle or when selecting Drive/1st than it used to have
- Clunks on take-off or when lifting off the throttle
- Engine sitting low on one side, fan touching shroud, or odd belt angles
- Excess gearstick movement or driveline shudder under load
- Rubber perished, cracked, oil-soaked, or separated from its metal plate
Replacement is straightforward for a competent home mechanic, but do it safely. Support the engine from above or below with a jack and a timber block under the sump, never on the bare alloy. Undo the mount-through bolts and the bracket-to-block or bracket-to-chassis bolts, swap the insulator, then refit and torque to the specs in the factory manual. Replace one side at a time to keep alignment, and check the transmission mount while you’re there—it often ages the same way.
Choosing parts comes down to how the Jimny’s used. Quality OEM-style rubber gives the best comfort and NVH. Heavy-duty or polyurethane mounts can add durability and crisper throttle response, but they’ll usually feed a bit more vibration into the cabin—fine for a tourer or weekend warrior, less ideal for a daily. After fitting, recheck clearances (fan to shroud, exhaust to crossmember) and go for a short test drive, then re-torque the hardware after a few heat cycles. A fresh set of mounts can make even a well-worn Jimny feel tighter and happier on Kiwi and Aussie backroads.
FAQs
How many engine mounts does a 1990 Suzuki Jimny have?
Most 1990 Jimny variants use two engine mounts (left and right) plus a separate transmission/gearbox mount. The exact bracket shapes can vary between JA11 (660 cc F6A) and SJ413 (1.3 petrol) setups, but the layout concept is the same: two engine insulators and one gearbox insulator supporting the driveline.
What symptoms point to worn engine mounts on a 1990 Jimny?
Tell-tales include increased vibration at idle, a thump or clunk when taking off or changing gears, the fan kissing the shroud under load, and the engine visually sitting low or skewed. Oil-soaked or cracked rubber on the mounts is another giveaway. If it buzzes more than it used to, the mounts are prime suspects.
Are polyurethane mounts a good idea for a 1990 Jimny?
Polyurethane mounts can improve durability and control engine movement for off-road work, but they often pass more vibration into the cabin than rubber. For a daily driver or long trips, quality rubber is usually nicer. For harder tracks or a lifted, torquier build, poly or heavy-duty rubber can be worth it.