Parts for your 1990 Mitsubishi Pajero-Exhaust mount

1990 Mitsubishi Pajero Exhaust-Mount: purpose, care and when to replace

Technical references — including the Mitsubishi factory service manual for first‑gen Pajero models (circa 1989–1991), the Mitsubishi ASA electronic parts catalogue, and well-known aftermarket workshop manuals — confirm the 1990 Mitsubishi Pajero exhaust is suspended on multiple rubber exhaust mounts (also called hangers or insulators) with matching steel brackets. So, yes, an exhaust-mount is relevant and fitted to this vehicle.

On a 1990 Pajero, the exhaust-mount’s job is dead simple but crucial: keep the pipework and mufflers where they should be while isolating vibration and allowing movement as the system heats and cools. Those rubber hangers stop drone in the cabin, prevent the exhaust knocking on the chassis or towbar, and reduce stress on the manifold and joints when the body and drivetrain flex off‑road.

Age, heat cycles, oil spray and off‑road use slowly harden or crack the rubber. When the mounts sag, the tailpipe can sit wonky, rattle at idle, or thump over bumps. That’s the time to sort them before a bracket cracks or a flange leaks. For an older Paj like this, it’s smart to check the exhaust-mounts at every service (or around each 10,000–15,000 km), and any time you’re under the truck after a track day or beach run.

Replacement is straightforward with the exhaust safely supported. A dab of silicone spray helps the old hangers slide off, avoid prying against thin-wall pipe. Fresh mounts should match the original shape and durometer so the system hangs at the right height and doesn’t transmit excess vibration. Many owners replace them in pairs on the same section (e.g., rear muffler) to keep things even. While you’re there, eyeball the steel brackets for rust, confirm heat shields are tight, and fit new hardware if the old bolts are crusty. Once fitted, check clearances to the crossmember, body, towbar and rear bumper — you want a neat air gap all round so nothing taps under load. A quick road test over corrugations or speed humps will tell you if the job’s done: no knocks, no buzz, just a quiet, well-hung system that’ll handle touring and trails.

• Common clues a mount is failing: droopy tailpipe, metallic tapping near the rear, exhaust sitting off-centre, or fresh scuff marks on the pipe.
• Tip: if a mount failed due to a bent bracket or misaligned section, fix the alignment first or the new rubber won’t last.

Popular questions about 1990 Mitsubishi Pajero exhaust-mounts

How can someone tell if their Pajero’s exhaust-mounts need replacing?
They’ll usually see a sagging or off‑centre tailpipe, hear rattles at idle, or feel thumps over bumps. On the hoist, cracked or perished rubber, elongated holes, or shiny rub marks on the exhaust and chassis are giveaways. If one mount’s gone hard or torn, the others are often not far behind.

Should they use OEM or universal exhaust-mounts?
Universal hangers can work in a pinch, but OEM‑style mounts usually fit cleaner and keep the system at the right height and angle. For touring or off‑road use, choosing mounts that match the original thickness and hardness helps avoid drone and premature tearing.

Is it safe to drive with a broken exhaust-mount?
It might be drivable short‑term, but it’s not ideal. A loose section can crack a weld, stress a flange, or let the pipe hit the body — which can get noisy and even leak fumes. Best to support the exhaust and replace the mount promptly.