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Parts for your 1990 Mitsubishi Pajero-Control arms
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1990 Mitsubishi Pajero Control Arms — What They Do and How to Look After Them
Based on technical sources, control arms are definitely used on the 1990 Mitsubishi Pajero (Gen I, L040/L141). The front end runs an independent double‑wishbone setup with torsion bars, which means there are upper and lower control arms. Many 1990 variants also use rear trailing arms (a type of control arm) on the live axle. So, control-arms are absolutely relevant to this model.
- Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero Factory Service Manual, Section 33 – Front Suspension: double wishbone (upper/lower arms) with torsion bar.
- Mitsubishi ASA/CAPS parts catalogue for 1990 Pajero: listings for front upper and lower arm assemblies, bushes and ball joints.
- Gregory’s and Haynes Pajero manuals (1983–1991): diagrams and procedures showing control arms in the front suspension.
On a 1990 Pajero, the control arms do the heavy lifting in the front suspension. They locate the hub and keep camber and caster in check while the torsion bars and shocks manage the bumps. Each arm pivots on bushes at the chassis and connects to the steering knuckle through ball joints, so they control wheel movement without sending every vibration into the cabin. That’s why a tidy set of arms, bushes and ball joints means straighter tracking, even tyre wear and a Paj that feels planted on corrugations and in town.
For servicing, it pays to inspect the control-arm bushes and ball joints at regular intervals—say every 10,000–15,000 km or at each service if the vehicle sees beach work, towing or rutted tracks. Look for perished or cracked rubber, split boots, rust staining, and any free play. A clunk on take-off or braking, vague steering, shimmy at certain speeds and feathered tyres are classic tells.
When replacement time comes, owners can either press in new bushes and ball joints or fit complete arms. Rebuilding is cost-effective if the arms aren’t bent or cracked, complete arms save time and often include fresh joints. Whichever path is chosen, torque the pivot bolts at normal ride height to avoid preloading the bushes, recheck torsion bar ride height, and always book a wheel alignment afterwards—camber/caster shims or adjusters will likely need a tweak. Stubborn hardware is common on older Pajeros, so penetrating oil, heat and new cam bolts are smart to have on hand. Quality rubber or polyurethane bushes both have their place: rubber rides quieter, poly tightens things up and can sharpen steering feel. For WOF/roadworthy, play in ball joints or flogged-out bushes will usually be a fail, so staying ahead of wear saves hassle.
- Common symptoms:
- Clunks over bumps, wandering at speed, uneven tyre wear, steering kickback, or visible bush/boot damage.
- Top tips:
- Inspect after off‑road trips, torque at ride height, replace in pairs where practical, and align immediately.
Popular questions about 1990 Mitsubishi Pajero control-arms
How can someone tell if the Pajero’s front control-arm bushes or ball joints are worn?
They’ll often hear dull clunks on take-off, braking or over potholes, and feel looseness or shimmy through the wheel. Uneven or rapid tyre wear and vague straight-line tracking are also common. A quick check on stands—prying the arm to see bush movement and testing for vertical or lateral play at the hub—usually confirms it. Split dust boots or rust-coloured weep marks around a ball joint mean it’s on the way out.
Is it better to replace just bushes/ball joints or the whole control arm?
If the arm is straight and the pivots are clean, pressing in new bushes and ball joints is cost-effective and keeps things original. Complete arms are quicker to fit, can solve seized sleeves or ovalled mounts in one hit, and often make sense when doing both sides before an alignment. Choice usually comes down to workshop tooling, budget and how hard the vehicle works off road.
Does the Pajero need an alignment and torsion bar check after control-arm work?
Yes. Any change to arms, bushes or ball joints shifts camber and caster, so a proper alignment is essential to protect tyres and restore steering feel. On torsion-bar Pajeros, ride height should be checked and set first, then the alignment done. Expect to adjust shims or eccentrics to bring it back into spec.
