Parts for your 1989 Mitsubishi Pajero-Wheel studs nuts

1989 Mitsubishi Pajero wheel studs and nuts

Wheel studs and nuts are absolutely used on the 1989 Mitsubishi Pajero. This is confirmed by Mitsubishi’s Pajero/Montero L040 Workshop Manual (Chassis, late-1980s printings), the Mitsubishi ASA electronic parts catalogue, and general-service manuals such as the Haynes Pajero/Montero 1983–1996. These sources show the ’89 Pajero’s 6-stud hubs (6 x 139.7) use pressed-in wheel studs and separate wheel nuts to clamp the rim to the hub/brake face.

On this era of Pajero, the studs provide the shear location and the nuts provide the clamping force that keeps the wheel seated under braking, cornering and off‑road punishment. It’s a simple, tough setup that suits towing, corrugations and bush work. Note that Mitsubishi supplied different nut styles: most steel wheels use 60‑degree tapered (conical) nuts, while many factory alloy rims use shank (mag) nuts with a flat washer. The seat style must match the wheel—don’t mix and match.

As part of routine servicing, the Pajero benefits from a quick health check of its wheel hardware. Keep threads clean and dry, start nuts by hand to avoid cross‑threading, and tighten in a star pattern with a torque wrench to the figure in the Mitsubishi workshop manual for the 1989 Pajero. After any wheel-off job or tyre rotation, re‑torque after 50–100 kilometres. Avoid lubricating the threads unless the service literature for your exact wheel/nut combination specifies it, as lubrication changes clamping force for a given torque.

Replacement is straightforward if a stud is stretched, corroded, or has damaged threads. The correct method is to remove the brake drum or caliper/rotor as needed, press the damaged stud out from the rear of the hub, and press the new one in squarely—don’t pull it in using a nut, as that can score the knurl or distort the flange. If multiple studs on the same hub show damage or have seen an impact, replace them as a set. When fitting aftermarket wheels or spacers, confirm you have sufficient thread engagement—generally at least the full nut depth, with 7–9 full turns on M12 x 1.5 studs typical for Pajero of this era.

• Check wheel nut tension at every service and before/after long trips.
• Use the nut style that matches your wheel seat (tapered vs shank/washer).
• Carry a couple of spare studs and nuts for remote touring.

Popular questions about 1989 Mitsubishi Pajero wheel studs and nuts

What wheel nut type does an ’89 Pajero use—tapered or shank?
Both were used depending on the wheel. Steel rims generally use 60‑degree tapered (conical) nuts, while many OEM alloy wheels use shank (mag) nuts with a flat washer. The nut must match the wheel seat design, using the wrong style can reduce clamping force or damage the rim.

How often should the wheel nuts be re‑torqued?
Any time a wheel has been removed, re‑check torque after 50–100 kilometres of driving. For touring or off‑road use, it’s smart to check nut tension at fuel or service stops. Always use a torque wrench and follow the specification in the Mitsubishi workshop manual for the 1989 Pajero.

Can a home mechanic replace a damaged wheel stud on a 1989 Pajero?
Yes, with the right tools. Remove the wheel and brake assembly as needed, press the old stud out from the rear of the hub, then press the new stud in squarely until fully seated. Refit components, torque the wheel nuts in a star pattern, and re‑check after a short drive. If unsure about clearance or ABS/splash shield interference, a workshop press makes the job easier and safer.