Parts for your 1989 Mitsubishi Pajero-Wheel hubs

1989 Mitsubishi Pajero wheel hubs — what they do and how to look after them

Technical references including the Mitsubishi Pajero/L040 Workshop Manual (1988–1990), the Mitsubishi ASA electronic parts catalogue, and Aisin free‑wheeling hub service literature confirm that the 1989 Mitsubishi Pajero uses conventional wheel hubs at all four corners. Many AU/NZ‑delivered 1989 models were fitted with manual free‑wheeling (locking) hubs on the front axle, while some trims used fixed drive flanges or automatic hubs. So wheel hubs are absolutely relevant on a 1989 Pajero, and they’re central to both road manners and off‑road reliability.

The wheel hub is the mounting point for the wheel and tyre, houses the front (and rear) wheel bearings, and—on 4x4 front ends—connects the driveshaft to the wheel via either a manual free‑wheeling hub or a fixed flange. On a 1989 Pajero, the bearings are serviceable tapered rollers, not sealed units. That’s great news for long‑term ownership: they can be cleaned, inspected, repacked with quality grease, and adjusted for correct preload rather than binned at the first hint of play.

As part of regular servicing—especially if the vehicle sees beach work, creek crossings, or corrugations—owners should plan to inspect and service the hubs and bearings periodically. A practical rhythm for a touring rig is every 40,000–60,000 km or annually, and sooner after heavy water or mud use. For models with manual Aisin‑type hubs, keep the cam and selector internals clean and very lightly lubricated so the dial turns smoothly and the pawls engage crisply, over‑greasing can make engagement sluggish.

• Check for rumbling or growling that changes with speed, excess play at 12 and 6 o’clock, hot hubs after a drive, or grease/oil escaping past the seals.
• If servicing, clean the hub and bearings with proper solvent, dry thoroughly, and repack with a high‑temperature NLGI‑2 wheel bearing grease. Renew the inner hub seal and the locking washer on the spindle nuts.
• Adjust bearing preload per the workshop manual procedure and torque specs, don’t overtighten. Refit manual hub assemblies carefully so the selector dial orientation and circlip seating are correct.
• Finish with correct wheel‑nut torque and a short road test. Recheck for play or heat after the first few kilometres.

When replacement is due (pitted bearings, blueing, damaged races, worn hub splines), quality parts from OEM‑grade suppliers like Aisin (hubs) and Koyo/NTN/Timken (bearings) are a safe bet. Whether it’s daily duties or high‑country tracks, a well‑kept Pajero hub set keeps the steering tight, the tyres happy, and 4WD engagement dependable.

Does a 1989 Pajero have manual locking hubs?

Many AU/NZ 1989 models do, but some trims came with fixed drive flanges or automatic hubs. A quick check: if there’s a small dial marked “LOCK–FREE” in the centre of the front wheel, it has manual free‑wheeling hubs. Fixed flanges look like a plain cap with no dial.

How often should front wheel bearings be repacked?

For mixed on‑ and off‑road use, every 40,000–60,000 km or annually is a sensible interval. After water crossings, beaches, or heavy mud, bring it forward—water and grit are the enemies of tapered rollers and seals.

What are the tell‑tale signs a hub or bearing needs attention?

Rumbling that rises with speed, heat from the hub after a short drive, free play when rocking the wheel at 12/6 o’clock, grease/oil leaks at the inner seal, or manual hubs that won’t click into LOCK/Free smoothly. Sort these early to avoid spindle or hub damage.