Parts for your 1989 Mitsubishi Pajero-Control arms

1989 Mitsubishi Pajero control arms — purpose, maintenance, and when to replace

Control arms are absolutely used on the 1989 Mitsubishi Pajero. Technical sources including the Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero Factory Service Manual (1983–1991, Front Suspension section), the Mitsubishi ASA global parts catalogue, and mainstream workshop guides (Haynes and Gregory’s covering 1983–1996 models) specify an independent front suspension with torsion bars and upper and lower control arms (double wishbone). The rear end is a live axle (leaf- or coil-sprung depending on model/trim) and doesn’t use control arms in the same way, but the front certainly does.

On the front of a ’89 Pajero, the control arms locate the hub and keep camber and caster where they should be while the torsion bars handle springing. The rubber/urethane bushes soak up vibration and allow controlled movement, and the ball joints let the steering and suspension articulate smoothly. Off-road, those arms cop plenty of load — corrugations, ruts, and slow, flexy climbs — so keeping them in top nick is key to good steering feel, even tyre wear, and predictable braking.

For owners who tour long distances or tackle rough tracks, it’s worth inspecting the arms, bushes, and ball joints at regular services (every 10,000–15,000 km is a good habit). Look for torn dust boots, cracked or perished bushes, rusty arms, and any free play at the ball joints. If the vehicle wanders, clunks over bumps, or chews the inside edges of tyres, the control-arm hardware is a prime suspect.

• Common signs: steering shimmy or wander, clunks on take-off or braking, uneven tyre wear, pulling under brakes, and visible bush/boot damage.
• Service tips: clean and inspect after water crossings, recheck after hard trips, and keep alignment within spec.

When it’s time to replace, support the vehicle safely and be mindful of torsion-bar preload on the lower arm. Mark the cam bolts before removal, and torque new bushes and pivot bolts at normal ride height to avoid preloading the rubber. Many choose complete arms for convenience, but quality bushes and ball joints are fine if the arms themselves aren’t bent or rusty. Always replace damaged ball joints and renew split boots — dirt kills them quickly.

Finish the job with a proper four-wheel alignment, then recheck fasteners after a few hundred kilometres. Look after the Pajero’s front control arms and it’ll steer straight, ride better, and keep tyres wearing evenly, on-road and out bush.

FAQs

How do you tell if the 1989 Pajero’s control arm bushes or ball joints are worn?
Clunks over bumps, vague steering, brake pull, and uneven tyre wear are red flags. Under the vehicle, look for torn dust boots, perished or split bushes, and any play at the ball joints when the wheel is levered up and down. Excess movement means it’s time for parts.

Should you replace just the bushes, or the whole control arm?
If the arm is straight and rust-free, quality bushes and ball joints are a solid, cost-effective fix. If the arm is bent, cracked, or the pivots are flogged out, a complete arm can save time and hassles. Either way, torque at ride height and get an alignment.

Do you need a wheel alignment after control arm work?
Yes. The Pajero’s camber and caster are set via the control arm pivots and cams. Any bush or arm change will shift alignment, so book an alignment straight after the job to protect tyres and restore proper handling.