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Parts for your 1988 Mitsubishi Pajero-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
1988 Mitsubishi Pajero engine-mount — what it does and when to replace it
Yes, the 1988 Mitsubishi Pajero uses engine mounts. Mitsubishi’s factory Workshop Manual for first‑gen Pajero/Montero (Group 11/Engine – Engine Mounting), the Mitsubishi ASA electronic parts catalogue for L040-series Pajero, and popular workshop guides like the Haynes manual all show two side engine mounting insulators on the crossmember plus a separate transmission mount. So the engine-mount is absolutely relevant to this model, whether it’s a 4D56 diesel, 4G54 petrol, or the 6G72 V6.
The engine-mount in this Pajero holds the engine at the right height and angle, isolates vibration from the cabin, and controls torque reaction when taking off, changing gears, or climbing. On a proper 4x4 like the Paj, the mounts cop extra stress from corrugations, low‑range work, and chassis twist, so keeping them in good nick makes a big difference to comfort and driveline longevity.
Typical signs it’s time to service or replace include a lumpy idle through the seats, a thud on take‑off, the engine rocking when the throttle is blipped in neutral, or visible rubber cracking, oil-soaked rubber, or a collapsed mount that lets the fan or exhaust touch. Diesels usually show the vibes first, the exhaust‑side mount can run hotter on petrol/V6 variants, so heat-affected rubber isn’t unusual.
Replacement is straightforward for a competent home mechanic, but support the engine correctly. Chock the wheels, disconnect the battery, and use a jack under the sump with a wood block to spread the load. Loosen the mount-to-bracket and mount-to-crossmember fasteners, lift the engine just enough to unload the mount, then swap it out. Torque the fasteners to spec from the workshop manual with the engine settled in its natural position on the mounts, not hanging on the jack. After a few hundred kilometres, re-check fasteners.
- Replace mounts in pairs where practical, and inspect the transmission mount at the same time.
- Avoid starting the engine with a mount removed or the engine unsupported.
- Use quality OEM or reputable aftermarket insulators matched to engine type (diesel vs petrol/V6) and side-specific fitment.
- If there’s been an oil leak, clean it up first — oil-soaked rubber fails early.
Look after the engine-mounts and the old girl will feel smoother, shift nicer, and put up with the rough stuff without rattling your teeth out.
Popular questions about 1988 Mitsubishi Pajero engine-mounts
How long do engine-mounts last on a 1988 Pajero?
Service life varies with use and heat. Many last 150,000–250,000 km on road, heavy towing, off-road work, or oil exposure can shorten that. If vibrations or clunks show up, inspect rather than waiting for a set kilometre figure.
Are diesel and petrol/V6 mounts the same?
No. Stiffness, brackets and part numbers can differ between 4D56 diesel, 4G54 petrol and 6G72 V6, and some exhaust-side mounts use heat shields. Always match the mount to the exact engine and side to keep NVH and alignment right.
Can worn engine-mounts cause driveline shudder?
They can. Collapsed or torn mounts let the engine sit low or twist, which can create shudder on take‑off, harsh shifting and extra vibration. Also check the transmission mount and tailshaft uni joints to rule out multiple contributors.