Parts for your 1988 Mitsubishi Pajero-Control arms

1988 Mitsubishi Pajero Control Arms

Control arms are absolutely relevant to the 1988 Mitsubishi Pajero. Technical references including the Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero 1983–1991 Workshop Manual (Front Suspension section), Mitsubishi ASA/CAPS parts catalogues (listing upper and lower front suspension arms), and common AU/NZ parts catalogues from brands like Terrain Tamer, Nolathane and SuperPro all specify front upper and lower control arms for first‑gen (1982–1991) Pajero. The front suspension is an independent double‑wishbone design with torsion bars, which by definition uses control arms. Most 1988 models run a live rear axle (leaf springs in many trims), so rear “control arms” aren’t typically used there, the control arms of interest are at the front.

On this model, the front control arms (upper and lower wishbones) locate the steering knuckle and let the wheels move up and down while keeping alignment in check. The lower arm also interfaces with the torsion bar to set ride height. Each arm pivots on bushes at the chassis and supports a ball joint at the knuckle, so when bushes harden or crack—or a ball joint develops play—owners will often notice clunks over corrugations, wandering on the highway, vague steering, or uneven tyre wear.

As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to inspect the front control arm bushes and ball joints every 10,000–15,000 km, or after hard off‑road use. Look for split rubber, leaking grease from sealed ball joints, rust trails, and any impact damage to the arms. Because ride height on a torsion‑bar Pajero affects camber and caster, any height adjustments or control arm work should be followed by a proper wheel alignment.

When replacement time comes, owners can choose complete arms (with bushes and ball joint pre‑installed) or refresh the existing arms with new bushes and joints. Replacing components in axle pairs (left and right) helps keep steering and braking behaviour even. Rubber bushes retain factory ride comfort, while polyurethane options sharpen response at the cost of a bit more NVH—handy for touring setups with heavier tyres and accessories. Pressing bushes into original arms needs the right tools, many prefer bolt‑in complete arms to save time. Always support the lower arm before separating the ball joint, and have a professional recheck alignment and ride height afterwards.

• Key checks: bush condition, ball joint play, arm straightness, mounting bolts tightness, and ride height consistency side‑to‑side.
• Symptoms to watch: tyre feathering, steering shimmy on braking, front‑end knock over bumps, and pull or drift.

Notable sources: Mitsubishi Workshop Manual (1983–1991, Group 33 Front Suspension), Mitsubishi ASA/CAPS parts diagrams (front upper/lower arm assemblies), Haynes Montero/Shogun/Pajero manual, and AU/NZ aftermarket catalogues listing control arm bushes and complete arms for 1983–1991 Pajero.

Popular questions about 1988 Mitsubishi Pajero control arms

Does a 1988 Pajero have control arms?
Yes—at the front. The 1988 Pajero runs independent front suspension with double wishbones (upper and lower control arms) and torsion bars. Most ’88 models have a live rear axle without rear control arms in the usual sense.

How long do Pajero control arm bushes and ball joints last?
On road‑biased use, many see 80,000–150,000 km. Heavy loads, corrugations, salt, and mud can shorten that considerably. Regular inspections and quality parts go a long way to extending service life.

Are polyurethane bushes a good idea on a Gen1 Pajero?
They can be, if sharper steering and durability are priorities. Expect a bit more vibration and road feel compared with rubber. For touring and towing, many owners like poly, for factory ride comfort, stick with rubber.