Parts for your 1987 Suzuki Swift-Wheel hubs

1987 Suzuki Swift wheel hubs — what they are and how to look after them

Wheel hubs are absolutely relevant and fitted to the 1987 Suzuki Swift (SA/AA series). Factory literature shows conventional front hub and bearing assemblies pressed into the steering knuckles, and rear drum-brake hubs running serviceable bearings on the stub axle. This layout is documented in the Suzuki Cultus/Swift (SA310/AA) factory service manual (Front Axle/Hub and Rear Axle sections, 1986–1988), mirrored in aftermarket guides such as the Haynes and Chilton manuals covering Chevrolet Sprint/Geo Metro/Suzuki Swift models of the same platform, and visible in Suzuki EPC groupings for “Wheel/Hub/Bearing”.

On the Swift, the hubs provide the mounting face for the wheels, keep the studs or bolts square, and carry the bearings that let the wheels spin freely with the right preload. The fronts typically use a sealed double-row ball bearing pressed into the knuckle with the hub flange fitted through it, while the rear drum assemblies use tapered roller bearings within the hub, running on a stub axle with a grease seal. No ABS rings to worry about on most ’87s, which keeps things simple.

Tell-tales of a crook hub or bearing include a humming or growl that rises with road speed, steering shimmy, uneven tyre wear, heat around the hub after a drive, or play when the wheel’s rocked at 12 and 6 o’clock. Any roughness when spinning by hand with the wheel off is a sign it’s time for attention.

Servicing is straightforward with the right gear. Fronts are a replace-when-noisy proposition because the bearing is sealed, replacing the bearing and inspecting the hub flange for runout is the go. Rears respond well to periodic inspection during brake work: clean, inspect races and rollers, repack with a quality high-temp wheel bearing grease, fit a new grease seal, and set the end float/preload to the factory spec. Always use new cotter pins and, where specified, a new hub nut.

• Clean the mating faces so wheels sit true, and torque wheel nuts correctly.
• Avoid belting the studs, press components where required.
• After any hub work, road test and recheck wheel-nut torque after 100 km.

Quality hub and bearing kits save headaches. If one side’s failed due to water ingress or age, checking the other side on the same axle is good practice. For exact torque values and preload procedures, follow the Suzuki workshop manual for the SA/AA Swift.

Popular questions about 1987 Suzuki Swift wheel hubs

Do the fronts use sealed bearings and the rears use serviceable bearings?

Yes. On most 1987 Swift variants, the front hub uses a sealed double-row ball bearing pressed into the knuckle. When it wears, the bearing (and sometimes the hub flange if damaged) is replaced as an assembly. The rear drum-brake hub uses tapered roller bearings that can be cleaned, inspected, repacked with grease, and have the preload/end float set to spec.

How can someone confirm a failing hub/bearing at home?

Listen for a speed-related hum or rumble that changes when loading the corner (gentle lane change). With the car safely raised, grasp the tyre at 12 and 6 o’clock and feel for play, any knock or roughness when spinning the wheel points to bearing wear. Heat at the hub after a short drive or grease leaking from the rear seal also suggests attention is needed.

What torque should the hub nut be tightened to?

Hub nut torque and rear bearing preload are model-specific. Because over- or under-torque can quickly kill a bearing, it’s best to use a torque wrench and follow the Suzuki workshop manual procedure for the SA/AA Swift. If in doubt, a trusted mechanic can set it by the book.