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Parts for your 1987 Suzuki Jimny-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
1987 Suzuki Jimny Engine Mounts — What They Do and When to Replace
Engine mounts are absolutely used on the 1987 Suzuki Jimny (SJ413/Sierra). Factory references such as the Suzuki SJ413/Samurai Service Manual, the Suzuki Electronic Parts Catalogue for SJ/Sierra, and the Haynes Suzuki SJ & Samurai 1982–1994 manual all show left and right engine mounting insulators on the chassis crossmember, along with a separate gearbox mount. So yes—this Jimny runs conventional rubber isolator mounts.
On a 1987 Jimny, the engine mounts do three key jobs: they hold the engine in the bay, isolate vibration so the cabin doesn’t buzz like a hive, and keep driveline angles steady under load. Two rubber “insulators” sit on either side of the block, with a gearbox mount out back to support the transmission. Together they let the little 1.3 petrol work hard off-road without shaking the body to bits.
As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to eyeball the mounts every 10,000–20,000 km, especially if the Jimny sees corrugations, mud, or beach work. Look for cracked rubber, collapsed height, oil soaking (from leaks), and any metal-to-metal contact. Oil contamination quickly softens the rubber, so fixing rocker cover and front seal leaks goes hand in hand with keeping mounts healthy.
Replacement isn’t strictly time-based, but if there’s a harsh idle, a thud on take-off, or the gear lever swings around under throttle, they’re due. Replacing in pairs (both left and right) keeps engine height even and helps fan, shroud, and exhaust clearances stay happy. Support the sump with a jack and a block of wood, swap one side at a time, and follow the factory tightening sequence and torque. After a short shakedown drive, recheck fasteners.
For a Jimny that tows or climbs rutted tracks, consider heavy-duty rubber rather than solid mounts. Solid mounts transmit noise and vibration—fine on a track rig, a bit ordinary on a daily. Quality OEM or reputable aftermarket mounts typically last longer and keep NVH civilised.
- Common symptoms: excess vibration at idle, clunks on gear changes, fan touching shroud, or exhaust contact.
- Quick checks: gently pry the engine to spot excessive movement, watch the engine rock when blipping the throttle in neutral.
- After fitment: verify radiator hose and exhaust clearance, and inspect the gearbox mount as well.
Popular questions about 1987 Suzuki Jimny engine mounts
How do you tell if the Jimny’s engine mounts are shot?
Excess cabin vibration at idle, a dull knock on take-off or when shifting, and the shifter wagging about under throttle are the big giveaways. A visual check often shows cracked or oil-soaked rubber or a mount sitting lower than the other side. If blipping the throttle makes the engine lurch more than expected, the mounts are likely tired.
Should both engine mounts be replaced at the same time?
Yes, it’s good practice to do both side mounts together. When one fails, the other’s usually not far behind, and replacing in pairs keeps the engine sitting square, which helps with fan, radiator, and exhaust clearance. While you’re in there, inspect the gearbox mount too—if it’s perished, swap it as well.
Are solid mounts a good idea for a 1987 Jimny?
For a daily-driven Jimny in Aussie or Kiwi conditions, solid mounts are overkill. They add noise and harshness and can stress brackets. Heavy-duty rubber mounts strike a better balance, giving improved control off-road without turning the cabin into a drum kit.