Parts for your 1987 Mitsubishi Pajero-Wheel studs nuts

1987 Mitsubishi Pajero Wheel Studs and Nuts

Wheel studs and nuts are absolutely relevant to the 1987 Mitsubishi Pajero. Technical references including the Mitsubishi Pajero (L040 series) Workshop Manual and the Mitsubishi ASA/EPC parts catalogue specify six wheel studs per hub with tapered-seat wheel nuts for the first-generation Pajero/Montero platform. This model does not use wheel bolts, it relies on pressed-in studs and separate nuts to clamp the wheel to the hub and brake rotor/drum.

On a ’87 Pajero, the studs and nuts do the heavy lifting—literally. They provide the clamping force that keeps the wheel square against the hub, maintains brake rotor/drum alignment and copes with off-road knocks, towing loads and corrugations. Factory wheels are designed to sit true on the hub spigot, while the studs and nuts supply the consistent clamp needed for safe driving on and off the blacktop.

As part of regular servicing (think tyre rotations, brake work or wheel changes), it’s smart to give the studs and nuts a close look. Check for stretched threads, rounded or cracked nuts, corrosion on the stud shank and any signs of cross-threading. Clean the threads and the nut seats, keep them dry unless a manufacturer bulletin says otherwise. Always tighten using a proper torque wrench in a star pattern to the workshop manual spec, and re-check torque after 50–100 km following a wheel refit—especially after off-roading or fitting new wheels.

If a stud is damaged or stripped, replace it promptly. The correct method is to press the old stud out of the hub and draw or press the new stud in squarely until fully seated on the flange. Avoid forcing it home with a rattle gun and a stack of washers, which can damage the hub or the new stud. Replace suspect nuts at the same time, and never mix seat styles—tapered seats must match tapered-wheel seats.

For longevity, avoid lubricating the nut seat or stud threads unless a service document specifically calls for it, don’t overcook them with an impact gun and re-check after hard 4WD trips. It’s simple care that keeps the Pajero’s wheels planted and the trip drama-free.

• Tell-tales of trouble: recurring loose nuts, visible thread damage, clunks under braking, or ovalled nut seats.
• Good habits: clean, dry threads, correct torque, star-pattern tightening, and timely replacement of worn hardware.

Popular questions about 1987 Mitsubishi Pajero wheel studs and nuts

What size are the wheel nuts on a 1987 Pajero?
Most first-generation Pajeros run M12 wheel studs with tapered-seat nuts, commonly M12 x 1.5. Variations can exist across markets and trims, so it’s best to confirm by checking the Mitsubishi parts catalogue against your VIN or measuring an existing nut/stud thread before ordering replacements.

Matching the correct seat style (tapered) and thread pitch is essential to maintain proper clamping and prevent wheel damage.

How often should the wheel nuts be re-torqued?
Any time a wheel has been removed, re-torque after the initial fitment and again after 50–100 km of driving. For off-road use, re-check after a day on rough tracks. At regular services and tyre rotations, always torque to the workshop spec using a calibrated wrench and a star pattern.

This habit prevents loosening from seating-in, temperature cycling or vibration, keeping the wheel secure and the brakes happy.

Can a home mechanic replace a damaged wheel stud?
Yes, with care. Remove the wheel and brake assembly as needed, press the damaged stud out, and install the new stud squarely until fully seated on the hub flange. Use the correct tools and follow the manual’s procedure. If the hub won’t allow clearance to extract the stud, the hub may need to come off.

If in doubt—especially with rusted components—get a workshop to press the stud in to avoid collateral damage.