Parts for your 1987 Mitsubishi Pajero-Ignition coils

1987 Mitsubishi Pajero ignition coils

Technical references show that an ignition coil is fitted to 1987 Mitsubishi Pajero petrol models, while diesel variants do not use one. The Mitsubishi Factory Service Manual for the L040 series (1982–1991) and parts catalogues (Mitsubishi ASA) list a single 12V ignition coil and distributor for petrol engines such as the 4G54 (2.6) and 4G63 (2.0). Haynes (Montero/Pajero 1983–1993) and Gregory’s service manuals likewise illustrate a conventional coil-and-distributor setup on petrol Pajeros. For the 4D55/4D56 diesels, these sources show glow plugs and a pre-heat system instead, diesels ignite by compression and therefore don’t use an ignition coil.

For petrol-equipped 1987 Pajeros, the ignition coil is the spark-maker’s muscle. It steps up the battery’s 12 volts to tens of thousands of volts, feeding the distributor, then the spark plugs. When the coil gets tired, the old bus can stumble: hard starts, a cough under load, rough idle, or a sudden cut-out once hot. On these first-gen trucks the coil is typically mounted on a bracket near the distributor or on the inner guard, with a single high-tension lead going to the distributor cap.

As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to give the coil and its mates a once-over every 20,000–30,000 km. Look for oil weeping from an oil-filled can coil, hairline cracks, rusty brackets, loose terminals, or a burned king-lead tower. Check the high-tension lead for brittleness and the distributor cap/rotor for tracking. If chasing a misfire, a quick resistance check against the factory spec (refer FSM for your exact engine) helps, but coils can fail when hot even if they ohm out fine cold. When replacing, match the coil to the system: some Pajero petrol setups use a ballast resistor, others don’t—use the correct “resisted” or “12V direct” type as specified.

Replacement is straightforward: disconnect the battery, label the positive/negative primary wires, swap the coil, and snug the bracket without crushing the housing. Fit a fresh HT lead if it looks tired, and keep moisture out with a light smear of dielectric grease at the tower. If the vehicle still stumbles, check the igniter/module, earth points, and that the spark plug gaps and leads are up to scratch. Quality coils from reputable brands tend to last longer and shrug off heat and corrugations better, which matters when the Pajero is working hard off-road.

Because diesel 1987 Pajeros don’t use spark ignition, they have no ignition coil, issues on those engines relate to the glow system, injectors, timing, or compression rather than spark.

• Signs of a failing coil: hard starting, misfire under load, rough idle, backfiring, engine cutting out when hot
• Service tip: inspect coil, HT lead, cap and rotor together, always confirm the correct coil type for ballast vs non-ballast systems

Popular questions

Where’s the ignition coil on a 1987 Pajero?
On petrol models it’s usually on a small bracket near the distributor or on the inner guard, with a single thick HT lead running to the distributor cap. Diesel models don’t have one at all, as they use compression ignition with glow plugs instead.

What are common symptoms of a bad ignition coil on these trucks?
Cold or hot hard-starting, misfire under load, rough idle, and occasional cutting out once warm are typical. Visual clues include oil seepage from the coil body, cracked plastic, corroded terminals, or a tired HT lead. Always check the distributor cap and rotor while you’re there.

Do all 1987 Pajeros use the same coil?
No. Petrol variants may differ by engine and whether a ballast resistor is fitted. Match the coil to the factory spec for your engine code (e.g., 4G54 or 4G63) and ignition setup. Diesel 4D55/4D56 models don’t use an ignition coil at all.