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Parts for your 1987 Mitsubishi Pajero-Engine mount
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
1987 Mitsubishi Pajero Engine Mount
Engine mounts are absolutely used on the 1987 Mitsubishi Pajero. Technical sources including the Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero factory workshop manual (first generation, 1983–1991), the Mitsubishi ASA/CAPS electronic parts catalogue, and well-known service guides such as Haynes and Gregory’s manuals all specify dedicated left and right engine mounting insulators for 1987 models across petrol and diesel variants. That confirms the Pajero of this era is designed with rubber-insulated engine mounts to secure the engine to the crossmember and control vibration.
On a 1987 Pajero, the engine mount’s job is to hold the engine at the correct height and angle, dampen vibration, and stop excess movement under acceleration, braking, and off-road articulation. Good mounts make the cabin calmer, keep the exhaust and hoses from being stressed, and protect the driveline from shock loads. Whether it’s the 4G54 petrol or the 4D56 diesel, healthy mounts are a big part of the Pajero’s trademark rugged feel without the harshness.
Common clues that the mounts are tired include extra vibration at idle (especially in Drive on autos), a thud or knock on take-off or when shifting, visible perishing or cracking of the rubber, a low engine stance causing fan-shroud contact, and noticeable engine rock when the throttle is blipped in neutral. Off-roaders may also notice driveline shudder on steep climbs if a mount is sagging.
As part of routine servicing, it’s smart to inspect the engine mounts every 20,000–30,000 kilometres or annually. Look for oil-soaked rubber (from leaks), splitting, separated bonding, or collapsed height. Replacement is straightforward for a competent home mechanic: support the engine evenly under the sump with a block of wood on a jack, replace one side at a time, and loosely fit the through-bolt before tightening everything to spec with the vehicle resting on its weight. Replace mounts in pairs, and check the transmission mount while you’re there. Use quality OEM or reputable aftermarket parts, note that diesel and petrol mounts often differ in hardness, so match to the engine type. After fitting, recheck fasteners after a few drives and keep an eye on idle vibration and bonnet clearance.
How long do engine mounts last on a 1987 Pajero?
On a well-kept Pajero that hasn’t done heavy towing or rough tracks, mounts can last 8–15 years. High heat, oil leaks onto the rubber, and corrugations shorten their life. A quick visual check at each service helps catch early sagging or perishing before it turns into clunks and vibration.
Can engine mounts be replaced at home?
Yes, with the right tools and safe support of the engine. Expect 2–4 hours for both sides if bolts are cooperative. Soak fasteners with penetrating oil, support the sump with a timber block, and align the new mount with small height adjustments on the jack. If rust or seized bolts are an issue, a workshop may be faster and safer.
Are petrol and diesel mounts interchangeable?
Usually no. The 1987 Pajero’s petrol and diesel variants use mounts with different durometers and sometimes different bracket shapes. Mixing types can cause excess vibration or poor alignment. Always order by VIN/engine code or consult the Mitsubishi EPC to match the correct insulator and bracket set.