Parts for your 1987 Mitsubishi Pajero-Cluth slave cylinder

1987 Mitsubishi Pajero clutch slave cylinder — what it does and how to look after it

According to the Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero factory workshop manual for the L040/L140 series (1983–1991, Clutch section), Gregory’s Pajero 1983–1989 manual, and the Haynes Montero 1983–1993 guide, the 1987 Mitsubishi Pajero with a manual gearbox uses a hydraulic clutch system with both a clutch master cylinder and a clutch slave cylinder mounted on the bellhousing. That means a clutch slave cylinder is absolutely relevant and fitted on manual ’87 Pajeros (note: automatic-transmission models don’t have one).

The clutch slave cylinder’s job is simple but crucial: it turns the hydraulic pressure you create at the pedal into a push on the clutch fork, moving the release bearing to disengage the clutch. On the 1987 Pajero it’s bolted to the gearbox bellhousing and connects to the clutch line from the master cylinder. When it’s healthy, gear changes are smooth and the pedal feels consistent.

Common signs the slave cylinder needs attention include:

• A soft, sinking, or spongy clutch pedal
• Difficulty selecting gears, especially reverse or first at a standstill
• Fluid loss from the clutch reservoir and dampness around the slave cylinder or bellhousing
• Visible leaks at the rubber boot or bleed nipple

As part of normal servicing on a 1987 Pajero, it pays to check the clutch fluid level regularly (use DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid as specified in the manuals) and flush it every two years or around 40,000 km. Inspect the rubber dust boot on the slave, the line fittings, and the bleed nipple. Any tearing, fluid weep, or corrosion is a cue to act. Keeping the pushrod and fork interface lightly lubricated with a suitable high-temperature grease helps reduce wear, but don’t contaminate the rubber boot or the friction surfaces.

Replacing a tired clutch slave cylinder is straightforward: crack the hydraulic line, cap it to minimise fluid loss, remove the mounting bolts, swap in the new unit, then bleed the system until the pedal firms up and air is gone. Pre-filling the new slave before installation can make bleeding quicker. Always use clean fluid, avoid mineral oil contamination, and snug the fittings securely without over-tightening. For off-roaders, mud and water crossings are tough on rubber boots—so keep an eye on the slave after trips and consider carrying a spare if touring remote.

FAQs

Where is the clutch slave cylinder on a 1987 Pajero?
It’s bolted to the gearbox bellhousing and pushes directly on the clutch fork. Look for a small cylindrical body with a bleed nipple and a hydraulic line attached. Depending on engine and market, it may sit on the left or right side of the bellhousing, but it’s always at the clutch fork pivot area.

What fluid should be used, and how often should it be changed?
Use DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid as per the service manuals. Change it about every two years or 40,000 km. Avoid silicone DOT 5, as it’s not compatible with systems designed for glycol-based fluids.

Can the slave cylinder be rebuilt, or is replacement better?
Rebuild kits exist and work well if the bore isn’t pitted. If there’s heavy corrosion or scoring, a complete replacement is the smarter, longer-lasting fix and often affordable for the 1987 Pajero.