Parts for your 1986 Suzuki Swift-Control arms

1986 Suzuki Swift control-arms — what they are and how to look after them

On the 1986 Suzuki Swift (first‑generation Cultus/SA310, also sold locally as the Holden Barina MB/MF and as the Chevrolet Sprint), control arms are very much a thing. Technical references including the Suzuki SA310/Swift Factory Service Manual (1983–1988), the Chevrolet Sprint Factory Service Manual (1985–1988), and Gregory’s Holden Barina MB/MF/MH Repair Manual describe a front MacPherson strut suspension using a pressed‑steel lower control arm (often called a track control arm or wishbone) with a separate radius/compression rod. So control arms are fitted on the 1986 Swift’s front end.

With that confirmed, here’s what those arms do and how to keep them sweet.

On a 1986 Suzuki Swift, the front lower control arms connect the steering knuckle to the chassis and keep the wheel located sideways while the separate radius rod manages fore‑aft loads. Together they set key geometry like caster and camber, so the car tracks straight, steers cleanly, and looks after its tyres. Each arm carries rubber bushes at the chassis end and a ball joint at the knuckle, allowing movement without slop. Because the rear of this model uses a torsion beam/trailing arm arrangement, most routine control‑arm attention is up front.

Owners will get the best out of their Swift by inspecting the control arm bushes and ball joints at each service (every 10,000–15,000 km). Look for perished or cracked bushes, leaking ball joint boots, and rust at mounting points. Common tell‑tales include:

• Clunks over bumps or when braking
• Wandering or tramlining, especially on uneven roads
• Uneven or rapid tyre wear, often on the inner edges
• Steering shimmy or a dull, delayed turn‑in feel

When replacement time comes, go for quality bushes (rubber for comfort, polyurethane for sharper feel but a touch more NVH). Replace arms or bushes in axle pairs to keep the geometry balanced. Always torque the inner pivot bolts at normal ride height so the bushes aren’t pre‑twisted. If the model uses a separate radius/compression rod bush, check and renew those at the same time, as they directly affect caster and braking stability. After any arm, bush, or ball joint work, a professional wheel alignment is a must, caster is largely set by the radius rod adjustment on these cars, with camber and toe checked to spec. While you’re under there, inspect sway bar links and the strut lower mount for play, and keep an eye on subframe and arm brackets for corrosion on older bodies.

Driven on Aussie and Kiwi roads, good bushes and joints can last 80,000–150,000 km depending on conditions. If the car is used on rough chipseal or gravel, shorten inspection intervals. A tidy front end pays off with better braking feel, tyre life, and that light, eager Swift steering enthusiasts love.

Popular questions about 1986 Suzuki Swift control-arms

Do the rear wheels on a 1986 Swift have control arms too?
Not in the same sense as the front. The rear is a torsion beam with trailing arms and bushes rather than separate upper/lower control arms. Most “control‑arm” maintenance is at the front, at the rear, check the beam/trailing arm bushes and shock mounts.

How can someone tell if the Swift’s control arm bushes or ball joints are worn?
Listen for clunks over bumps, feel for steering shimmy, and watch for uneven tyre wear. A pry‑bar check for bush movement and a free‑play check at the ball joint (with the wheel lifted safely) will usually confirm it. Any torn dust boots or leaking grease means replacement is due.

After replacing control arms, is a wheel alignment necessary?
Yes. On this model, toe must be reset and caster verified because the radius/compression rod and bush position influence it. Skipping alignment risks crooked steering, poor tyre life, and vague handling.