Parts for your 1986 Mitsubishi Pajero-Strut mounts

1986 Mitsubishi Pajero strut-mounts — what’s actually fitted

Strut-mounts aren’t used on the 1986 Mitsubishi Pajero (Gen 1, L040 series). Technical references including the Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero Factory Service Manual (Chassis: Front Suspension), the Haynes Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero 1983–1996 Repair Manual, and AU/NZ parts catalogues from Monroe and KYB all describe the front end as a double-wishbone, torsion-bar independent suspension with separate telescopic shock absorbers. The rear uses a live axle with leaf springs (with separate shocks). None of these sources list MacPherson struts or strut top mounts for this model year, so a strut-mount simply isn’t part of the factory suspension.

Why no strut-mounts? The Pajero’s torsion-bar IFS suits off-road packaging and durability, giving good ground clearance and toughness. Because the springing (torsion bar) and damping (shock absorber) are separate from the steering knuckle, there’s no combined “strut” assembly. That means no strut top bearing or rubberised strut-mount at the body. Instead, the shocks bolt to brackets with simple rubber bushes, and the upper location and alignment come from the control arms and ball joints.

If someone’s chasing a “strut-mount” noise or replacement on a 1986 Pajero, the most relevant checks are:

• Front shock absorber upper and lower bushes (look for perishing, play, or oil misting on the shock body)
• Upper and lower control arm bushes and ball joints
• Steering idler and pitman arm, and tie-rod ends
• Torsion bar anchors/adjusters and bump stops
• Rear leaf-spring eye and shackle bushes, U-bolts, and shock bushes

Typical symptoms owners blame on “strut mounts” — clunks over corrugations, vague steering, tyre feathering, or a knock when turning — are more often worn shock bushes or tired control arm bushes on this model. As part of regular servicing, it’s smart to:

1. Inspect shock bushes every 10,000–15,000 km, especially after beach runs or outback work.
2. Check for fluid leaks and replace shocks in axle pairs if damping’s gone soft.
3. Assess control arm bushes/ball joints and set ride height via torsion bar adjustment, followed by a proper wheel alignment.

Note: Some custom or race-style coilover conversions exist, but they’re not factory. Any conversion that adds a “strut” or coilover top mount needs proper engineering and certification in Australia or New Zealand.

Technical sources referenced: Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero Factory Service Manual (1982–1991, L040, Chassis Sections 32–34), Haynes Repair Manual for Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero 1983–1996, Monroe AU/NZ shock absorber and mount catalogue, KYB AU application guide. All list separate shocks and no MacPherson strut for 1986.

Popular questions

Does a 1986 Mitsubishi Pajero have strut-mounts?
No. The front end is a torsion-bar double wishbone with separate shocks, and the rear is a live axle with leaf springs and separate shocks. There’s no MacPherson strut, so no strut top mounts are fitted from factory.

What should be serviced instead of strut-mounts on a 1986 Pajero?
Focus on shock absorber bushes, control arm bushes and ball joints, steering idler/pitman arms, and torsion bar settings. At the rear, check leaf-spring bushes, shackles, and U-bolts. These parts cause the noises and handling quirks people often mistake for “strut-mount” issues.

Can I retrofit coilovers or strut-style tops to my 1986 Pajero?
Only with custom fabrication and engineering. Most kits retain torsion bars, true coilover or strut-top setups need new towers and certification to stay road-legal in AU/NZ.