Parts for your 1986 Mitsubishi Pajero-Cv joint

1986 Mitsubishi Pajero CV Joint – what it does and how to look after it

On the 1986 Mitsubishi Pajero (Gen 1), constant-velocity joints are absolutely relevant: the vehicle runs independent front suspension with CV-jointed half-shafts to each front wheel. This layout is detailed in the Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero Factory Service Manual (1983–1991), the Haynes Repair Manual for Mitsubishi Montero/Pajero (1983–1995), Gregory’s Service & Repair Manual for Pajero (1983–1991), and the Mitsubishi ASA/ CAPS parts catalogue, which list Rzeppa-type outer CVs and tripod-type inner CVs on the front drive shafts. The rear end is a live axle with universal joints, but the front of any 4WD 1986 Pajero uses CVs.

What the CV joint does: it sends drive from the front diff to the wheels while they’re turning and moving up and down with the suspension. Because it keeps a constant rotational speed at different angles, the steering stays smooth, the front end stays quiet, and traction in low-range or on corrugations doesn’t go to custard.

Servicing advice: while the joints themselves are sealed, the rubber boots and clamps are consumables. At each service (every 10,000–15,000 km is a good rhythm), inspect both inner and outer boots for splits, weeping grease, or loose clamps. Any fling of grey/black moly grease around the lower control arms or inner guards is a red flag. If a boot’s torn, replace the boot and grease promptly, running a dry CV will notch the bearing tracks and it’ll start clicking on lock under throttle.

When replacing: it’s often quicker and more reliable to fit a complete CV shaft rather than rebuilding a badly worn joint. Use quality moly CV grease, new circlips, and a new axle nut, and torque/stake the nut to the spec in the Pajero workshop manual. If the vehicle has manual locking hubs, check hub gaskets and wheel bearing preload while you’re there. Aftermarket lifts increase CV angles, consider droop limits or a diff drop to protect the joints on a raised Paj.

Driving habits matter too. Avoid full-throttle launches at full steering lock, especially in 4WD on high-traction surfaces. A gentle hand pays off in longer CV life, fewer roadside dramas, and more happy kilometres under the bonnet.

• Common signs of wear: clicking while turning, vibration under acceleration, torn boots, grease spray, or noticeable play at the shaft.
• Good practice: inspect boots every service, after off-road mud/sand runs, and after fitting a lift or new tyres.

FAQ

What are the tell-tale signs my 1986 Pajero’s CV joint or boot is failing?
A rhythmic clicking on turns, a shudder under load, or grease splattered near the lower arms usually means trouble. Torn or perished boots are the usual culprit, once the grease escapes and water gets in, the joint wears quickly. Catch a bad boot early and you can often save the joint.

Should I rebuild the CV or replace the whole shaft?
If it’s only a split boot and the joint is quiet and smooth, a boot kit and fresh moly grease can do the trick. If there’s clicking, roughness, or visible pitting, a complete shaft assembly is typically faster, more reliable, and cost-effective than a rebuild on an old joint.

Do I need a wheel alignment after a CV shaft replacement?
A straight CV swap doesn’t change alignment settings, but it’s smart to check toe and camber if ball joints, control arm bolts, or ride height were touched. If you’ve lifted the Pajero or adjusted torsion bars, book an alignment to keep tyre wear even.