Are bigger brakes worth it for your 4WD?

Is Upgrading Your Brakes Really Worth It?

In this article, we decide if upgrading your brakes for your four-wheel drive is worth it. We tested three brake upgrades to see the difference they make and how much they improve in comparison to standard OE brakes.

Put To the Test

For this test, we filmed in controlled conditions down at Pheasant Wood Circuit in Marulan with leading engineers from Bendix Brakes to record and log all the data from the test to make sure everything is accurate.

How the testing worked: we set up cones on the straight of the circuit, and as soon as we reached these cones, Jocko pressed the brakes while driving at 80 km/h. The data tracking test showed us how fast the vehicle went, how long it took to stop, and the amount of force applied to the brakes to bring the vehicle to a stop.

We repeated this test 5 times in a row per brake setup to show performance under stress and to see the effects of heat and brake fade.

The testing equipment used included a Pedal Effort Sensor and a tablet with GPS to measure speed and travel, which also collected data from the pedal sensor.

Our testing vehicle was a 2017 FX4 Ford Ranger 4x4. We chose this vehicle as it has a lot of the common 4WD gear that we all use — rooftop tents, bar work, lights, and much more — with a GVM upgrade but on standard brakes.

Brake Test 1: Standard OE Brakes

Fresh brake pads and rotors were installed to keep the data as fair and accurate as possible.

• Run 1: Braking Distance 44.80 m, Max Pedal Effort 303.48 Nm
• Runs 2 & 3: Similar results to each other; approx. 41 m and 300 Nm
• Runs 4 & 5: Loss of brake performance observed, with pedal effort at 596 Nm, stopping distance of 41 m, and brakes beginning to smoke. This was due to overheating pads that struggled to dissipate heat.

Standard Brake Conclusion

Standard brakes are fine for day-to-day driving in a stock vehicle, but OEM brakes are not designed to keep up with the demands we’re putting on our four-wheel drives when we load them with gear, larger tyres, and accessories.

These brakes will still work, but the problem is when you need them in an emergency braking situation — they could fail, and the consequences could be huge.

More weight on your vehicle = more friction needed to stop.

How Do Brakes Work?

Your brake pads contact the brake rotor and create friction that allows you to stop. The more friction, the better the braking performance.

A by-product of friction is the creation of heat. As brakes heat up, they lose efficiency and don’t work as well. Therefore, rotors are designed with grooves to help dissipate heat more effectively.

Simply put, the better your brakes can get rid of heat created from braking, the quicker you are going to stop.

All the common 4WD mods that we all use and love — bull bars, lights, drawers, roof racks, 12V systems, extra tanks — all contribute to poorer braking capabilities.

Big Brake Upgrade Level 1 Test

For this level of upgraded brakes, we went with the best bang-for-buck option. This upgrade included better quality and tougher pads and rotors, braided brake lines, and upgraded rear drums and drum shoes.

• Run 1: Similar stopping distance to OE brakes at 43 m, but pedal effort registered significantly lower at 184 Nm.
• Run 5: The 4WD stopped at 39 m with a pedal effort reading of 252 Nm and no signs of smoke or fade.

Even on the fifth test, the vehicle was still stopping a few meters earlier than standard brakes. The OE brakes started to wear by the last test, while the Bendix Level 1 brake upgrade required 344 Nm less pedal effort in the final run than standard brakes.

Why We Saw Better Results in This Level 1 Upgrade

• Upgraded Rotors: These have slots and dimples and are made of high-carbon metal, improving their ability to dissipate heat. The edge of the rotor allows the pads to bite better, improving braking performance.
• Upgraded Pads: Made with better materials to increase friction compared to standard pads, meaning they clamp better and last longer.
• Braided Brake Lines: These handle pressure better than standard rubber lines, which expand with pressure and wear quicker. Braided lines are internally lined with stainless steel for strength and protection.
• Rear Drums: Upgraded with higher quality drums and shoes that handle heat much better than standard OE brakes.

Big Brake Upgrade Level 2 Test

For this level of testing, we removed the drum brakes in the rear and swapped them for a disc brake conversion. This made the rear brake system the same as the front, with upgraded pads and rotors rather than brake drums.

• Run 1: Incredible results of a 30.5 m stopping distance — reduced by 14 m — and a lower pedal effort of 195 Nm.
• Runs 2-4: Similar results, with braking distance slowly increasing from 32 m to 37 m, but pedal effort remained consistently low at approx. 275 Nm.
• Run 5: Final stopping distance was 40 m with a max pedal effort of 272 Nm.

All results with the Bendix Level 2 upgrade remained consistent throughout all 5 runs. The rear drum conversion provided a massive initial increase in stopping power compared to previous tests.

Drum Brakes

Issues

Drum brakes do work well, but the biggest issue arises when you take your 4WD off-road. To ensure your drum brakes are working correctly, you will need to inspect, adjust, and clean them, particularly if you have driven through mud and water.

Manufacturers install drum brakes due to cost and their ability to adjust to varying weights and loads. However, drums are a semi-sealed unit, and the heat created when braking gets trapped and cannot dissipate efficiently.

Disc Brakes

Pros

• Disc brakes use clamping pressure, which is more efficient and effective at braking than drum-style outward pressure.
• As disc brakes are out in the open air, they cool off while driving, reducing the risk of overheating.

Big Brake Upgrade Level 3 Test

For this test, we used a seriously upgraded brake setup with larger rotors and bigger brake calipers that add extra pistons for braking. This setup is perfect for any 4WD that tows large loads, such as big caravans.

• Run 1: The 4WD stopped at 27 m (17 m shorter than OE) with a pedal effort of only 189 Nm. The vehicle braked so hard that the nose dipped enough to trigger the engine low oil pressure light.
• Runs 2-4: The brakes performed consistently, stopping at around 32 m with pedal effort varying from 277 Nm to 315 Nm.
• Run 5: Barely any brake fade observed, stopping at 31 m with a pedal effort of 339 Nm.

In this picture above, the vehicle in the background is where the fully upgraded brakes stopped the 4WD in the final run, and where Jocko is standing with the pram is the stopping point of the standard OE brakes.

Which Upgrade Kit Is for You?

Each upgrade saw significant changes from the standard system. All throughout the testing, runs 1-5 showed signs of brake fade, but the higher-level upgrades resulted in less brake fading, shorter stopping distances, and less maximum pedal effort.

This isn’t going to be a one-size fits all situation, you’ll need to determine your what your needs are and upgrade to suit:

• Work Ute with weekend camping and light towing: Upgrade rotors, pads, and brake lines for better braking performance without breaking the bank.
• 4WDers and regular towing: A drum-to-disc conversion is a no-brainer for less maintenance and better performance.
• GVM-upgraded vehicles, constantly loaded, and big load towing: A full upgrade with larger rotors and calipers will give you confidence and peace of mind in your braking capabilities.