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Parts for your 2018 Mazda 3-Engine mount
OEX Engine Shut Down Solenoid 24V - Pull Rating 10.9Kg/cm2 1751 Series - ACX3333
OEX Engine Shut Down Solenoid 12V - Pull Rating 11.8Kg/cm2 2003 Series - ACX3334
OEX Engine Shut Down Solenoid 12V - Pull Rating 16.8Kg/cm2 2370 Series - ACX3336
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Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A @ 12V) - 61036BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master / Isolator Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob (Contacts Rated 100A 12V) - 61036
OEX Push Button Switch Off - Mom On - SPST 12V Green Illuminated (Contacts Rated 50A @ 12V) - ACX3674BL
OEX Ignition Switch Glow - Off - Acc/Ign - Start (Contacts Rated 30A @ 12V) - ACX3563
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removable Keyed Knob 200A (Contacts Rated 200A 12V) - 61043BL
Narva Rotary Battery Master Switch With Removeable Keyed Knob 300A (Contacts Rated 300A @ 12V) - 61045BL
2018 Mazda 3 engine mount — what it does and when to sort it
Referencing technical sources, this model absolutely uses engine mounts. The Mazda Workshop Manual for the BM/BN-series Mazda3 (Engine Mounting section) and the Mazda genuine parts catalogue for MY2018 both show three primary mounts: a right-hand hydraulic engine mount, a left-hand transaxle mount, and a rear torque (roll stopper) mount. So, engine mounts are very much relevant on the 2018 Mazda 3.
On a 2018 Mazda 3, the engine mounts do the quiet achiever’s job: they hold the engine and transmission steady, soak up vibration, and keep the drivetrain lined up so gear changes feel tidy and the cabin stays calm. The right-hand mount is typically hydraulic to tame idle buzz, the left supports the gearbox, and the rear torque mount reins in twist when taking off or shifting.
As kilometres add up, rubber hardens or cracks and hydraulic mounts can seep. Owners may notice extra vibration at idle, a thud on take-off, or more engine movement when blipping the throttle. Leaving it too long can stress exhaust flex joints, driveshafts, and even create alignment dramas in the long run.
For servicing, it’s smart to have the mounts inspected around major intervals (think 60,000–100,000 km) or any time there’s new noise, harshness, or movement. A good tech will check for collapsed rubber, fluid weep from the hydraulic mount, perished bushings on the rear torque mount, and excessive engine movement under light load.
Replacement isn’t exotic, but it does need care. Support the engine with a stand or a jack and timber under the sump lip (never bare-jack the sump), swap one mount at a time, and torque fasteners with the engine settled at ride height to avoid preloading the bushes. Using quality OEM or reputable aftermarket mounts keeps NVH close to factory. After fitment, a quick road test for idle feel, launch thump, and steering/AC load behaviour is a good sanity check.
There’s no fixed replacement kilometre for mounts, but many owners see them last well past 100,000 km if driven sensibly. City stop–start, lots of hill starts, or track work can bring the timeline forward. If the Mazda 3 starts feeling a bit rattly or clunky, getting the mounts checked is a cheap way to keep it feeling like new.
- Common signs: idle vibration, clunk on take-off, excessive engine rock, or visible cracks/fluids on the mount.
- Best practice: inspect at major services, replace in pairs if NVH is still high, and recheck torque after a few hundred kilometres.
FAQs
How many engine mounts does a 2018 Mazda 3 have?
Most 2018 Mazda 3 variants use three main mounts: a right-hand hydraulic engine mount, a left-hand transaxle mount, and a rear torque mount. This layout suits both petrol manual and automatic models in the BM/BN series.
How long do engine mounts typically last on a 2018 Mazda 3?
It varies with use, but many owners see 100,000–160,000 km before noticeable NVH or movement appears. Heavy stop–start driving, rough roads, or performance mods can shorten that window, while gentle commuting can stretch it.
What are the symptoms of a failing engine mount on this model?
Tell-tales include more vibration at idle (especially in Drive with AC on), a thunk on take-off or shift, and visible cracking or fluid seep on the right-hand hydraulic mount. Excess engine rock when revved in neutral is another giveaway.