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Parts for your 2013 Mazda Axela-Rack boots
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2013 Mazda Axela rack-boots: what they do and when to replace them
Yes, the 2013 Mazda Axela uses rack-boots. Technical documentation backs this up: the Mazda workshop manual (MGSS) for the BL/BM series steering system identifies “steering gear dust boots” fitted to the left and right ends of the rack-and-pinion, and the Mazda Electronic Parts Catalogue lists a pair of “Boot, Steering Gear” items for the same models. Whether it’s the late BL (ending 2013) or the early BM (launched late 2013), both variants run a rack-and-pinion with protective boots.
On this Axela, the rack-boots (also called steering rack gaiters) are simple but crucial. They keep road grit, water, and dust off the inner tie rods and the rack seals, and they help contain any lubricant or, on EHPS setups, residual fluid mist. When a boot splits, contaminants attack the inner tie-rod joint and rack seals, which can quickly turn a cheap boot job into a pricey steering rack replacement.
As part of routine servicing, a quick visual check of both boots is smart practice. They should be pliable, uncracked, and clamped snugly with no grease fling or moisture inside. If one side is torn or hard as a rock, replace both—boots age at a similar rate, and doing them as a pair keeps steering feel consistent. Most workshops will:
- Remove the tie-rod end and old clamps, slide off the boot, and clean the rack area.
- Inspect the inner tie rod for play, replace if there’s any looseness or notchiness.
- Fit a quality boot with new clamps, lightly lubricate the inner lip, and reassemble.
- Set toe and check alignment—disturbing the tie-rod end will shift toe even if counted turns are used.
Typical signs it’s time for new boots include a visible split, greasy spray on the subframe, a clicking or clunk from the inner joint over bumps, or a moist, dirt-laden boot. Driving long with a torn gaiter isn’t worth the risk, moisture will pit the rack shaft and chew out seals. Replacement isn’t a big job for a tech and saves the rack from grief.
For Kiwi and Aussie conditions—lots of wet roads, the odd gravel stretch, and strong UV—plan on inspecting the boots at every service and expect replacement somewhere in the mid-life of the car if they’ve never been done. Use proper clamps (not cable ties), avoid twisting the boot on install, and always follow with a wheel alignment to keep the Axela tracking straight and the tyres happy.
Popular questions
How often should rack-boots be replaced on a 2013 Mazda Axela?
There’s no fixed interval, they’re replaced on condition. In local conditions, a careful inspection at every service is best. If the rubber shows cracks, goes hard, or the clamp area weeps, it’s time to swap them out—ideally as a pair.
What are the signs of a failing rack-boot?
Look for splits or perishing, grease flung onto nearby components, or dirt stuck to moisture inside the boot. You might also notice a light clunk from the inner tie rod over bumps if contamination has started wear.
Can you drive with a torn rack-boot?
It’ll still steer, but it’s risky. A torn boot lets water and grit in, which can damage the inner tie rod and the rack shaft and seals. That can turn a quick, inexpensive boot job into a replacement rack and alignment bill.