Parts for your 2013 Ford Escape-Oil seals

2013 Ford Escape oil seals: what they do and when to service them

Oil seals are very much used on the 2013 Ford Escape. Technical sources including the Ford Workshop Manual for the 2013 Escape (engine sections for the 1.6L/2.0L EcoBoost and 2.5L Duratec, plus the 6F35 automatic transaxle and AWD driveline sections) and the Ford/Motorcraft parts catalogues list multiple seals: front and rear crankshaft oil seals, transaxle output/drive shaft oil seals, and (on AWD models) Power Transfer Unit and rear differential/pinion seals. Those factory documents exist to specify service procedures and part numbers for these seals, which confirms they’re standard fitment on this model.

On a 2013 Escape, oil seals keep lubricants where they belong and road grime out, while allowing rotating shafts to spin freely. When they harden or wear, oil weeps begin, leading to mess under the bonnet, low fluid levels, odd smells, and—if ignored—expensive repairs. They’re small parts with a big job.

• Engine: front crankshaft seal (behind the crank pulley) and rear main seal (between engine and gearbox).
• Transaxle: left/right output shaft seals on the 6F35 auto.
• AWD models: PTU input/output seals and rear differential/pinion and axle seals.

As part of regular servicing, a quick visual once-over goes a long way. The tech should look for fresh oil around the crank pulley, the bellhousing joint, and where the driveshafts enter the transaxle or PTU, check undertrays for wetness, and note any burnt-oil smell after a drive. Keeping crankcase ventilation in good nick helps seals live longer by avoiding excess pressure.

Replacement is straight-forward for some seals and more involved for others. Axle/output seals are typically done in situ, the front crank seal is best tackled when the belt, pulley, or timing cover is off, the rear main needs the transmission removed, so many owners align it with a torque converter or flexplate job to save labour. Quality matters—go genuine Motorcraft or a reputable equivalent. The installer should use the correct driver, lightly oil the seal lip, and seat it square. After any leak, verify fluid levels (engine oil, ATF, and for AWD, PTU and rear diff) and clean down the area so any fresh seep is obvious.

• Common clues a seal’s on the way out: oil spots under the car, dampness around the affected joint, a whining or harsh shift from low ATF, a hot, oily smell near the firewall, and top-ups needed between services.

Does the 2013 Ford Escape have a rear main seal, and how hard is it to replace?

Yes. It sits between the engine and the 6F35 transmission. Replacement requires removing the gearbox, so it’s a bigger job. Many workshops pair it with other transmission-out work to save labour. Expect several hours in the shop and plan for new fluids and seals while you’re there.

Are PTU and trans output seals common leak points on AWD 2013 Escapes?

They can be. The PTU runs hot and any worn seal or breather issue can lead to weeping. It’s smart to check the PTU and trans output areas at every service, especially if you tow or drive in stop–start traffic.

Which fluids should be checked if an oil seal is leaking?

Engine oil for crank seals, automatic transmission fluid for the 6F35 output seals, and on AWD, the PTU and rear differential oils. Top up as needed, fix the leak promptly, and recheck levels after repairs.